This disagreeable affair being terminated, he with double earnestness
renewed his preparations for departure. Aware that a knowledge of
medicine and surgery, independently of all considerations of his own
health, might be of incalculable advantage to him among the barbarous
nations whose countries he designed to traverse, he had, during the
whole of his residence at Algiers, devoted a portion of his time to the
study of this science, under the direction of Mr. Ball, the consular
surgeon; and this knowledge he afterward increased by the aid of Dr.
Russel at Aleppo.
The chaplain of the factory being absent, to avoid the necessity of
taking the duties of burying, marrying, and baptizing upon himself, he
took into his house as his private chaplain an aged Greek priest, whose
name was Father Christopher, who not only performed the necessary
clerical duties, but likewise read Greek with our traveller, and enabled
him, by constant practice, to converse in the modern idiom. The
friendship of this man, which he acquired by kindness and affability,
was afterward of the most essential service to him, and contributed
more, perhaps, than any other circumstance to preserve his life and
forward his views in Abyssinia.
At length, in the month of August, 1765, Bruce departed from Algiers,
furnished by the dey with ample permission to visit every part of his
own dominions, and recommendatory letters to the beys of Tunis and
Tripoli. He first sailed to Port Mahon, and then, returning to the
African shore, landed at Bona. He then coasted along close to the shore,
passed the little island of Tabarca, famous for its coral fishery, and
observed upon the mainland prodigious forests of beautiful oak. Biserta,
Utica, Carthage were successively visited; and of the ruins of the last,
he remarks, that a large portion are overflowed by the sea, which may
account, in some measure, for the discrepancy between the ancient and
modern accounts of the dimensions of the peninsula on which it stood.
At Tunis he delivered his letters, and obtained the bey’s permission to
make whatever researches he pleased in any part of his territories. He
accordingly proceeded with an escort into the interior, visited many of
the ruins described or mentioned by Dr. Shaw, feasted upon lion’s flesh,
which he found exceedingly tough and strongly scented with musk, among
the Welled Sidi Booganim, and then entered the Algerine province of
Kosantina. Here, he observes, he was greatly astonished to find among
the mountains a tribe of Kabyles, with blue eyes, fair complexions, and
red hair. But he ought not to have been astonished; for Dr. Shaw had met
with and described the same people, and supposed, as Bruce does, that
they were descendants of the Vandals who anciently possessed this part
of Africa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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