Our traveller now prepared to depart; and having obtained the necessary
letters and despatches both from the patriarch and the bey, commenced
his movements with a visit to the Pyramids. He then embarked in a kanja,
and proceeded up the river, having on the right-hand a fine view of the
pyramids of Gizeh and Saccara, with a prodigious number of others built
of white clay, which appeared to stretch away in an interminable line
into the desert. On reaching Metraheny, which Dr. Pococke had fixed upon
as the site of Memphis, Bruce discovered what he thought sufficient
grounds for concurring in opinion with that traveller in opposition to
Dr. Shaw, who contends in favour of the claims of Gizeh. The Serapium,
the Temple of Vulcan, the Circus, and the Temple of Venus, the ruins of
which should be found on the site of Memphis, are nowhere discoverable
either at Metraheny or Gizeh, and are not improbably supposed by Bruce
to be buried for ever beneath the loose sands of the desert. A man’s
heart fails him, he says, in looking to the south and south-west of
Metraheny. He is lost in the immense expanse of desert which he sees
full of pyramids before him. Struck with terror from the unusual scene
of vastness opened all at once upon leaving the palm-trees, he becomes
dispirited from the effect of sultry climates, shrinks from attempting
any discovery in the moving sands of the Saccara, and embraces in safety
and in quiet the reports of others, who, he thinks, may have been more
inquisitive and more adventurous than himself.
Continuing to stem the current of the Nile, admiring as they moved along
the extraordinary scenery which its banks presented, they arrived at the
village of Nizelet ul Arab, where the first plantations of sugar-cane
which Bruce had met with in Egypt occurred. A narrow strip of green
wheat bordered the stream during the greater part of its course, while
immediately behind a range of white mountains appeared, square and flat
like tables on the summit, and seeming rather to be laid upon the earth
than to spring out of and form a part of it. The villages on the shore
were poor, but intermingled with large verdant groves of palm-trees,
contrasting singularly with the arid and barren aspect of the rocky
ridges behind them; and presenting many features of novelty, they were
not without their interest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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