The old man upon this rose from his carpet and sat upright, and a more
ghastly and more horrid figure, says Bruce, I never saw. “No,” he
replied; “cursed be those of my people or others that ever shall lift up
their hands against you, either in the deserts or the _tell_ (the
uncultivated land). As long as you are in this country, or between this
and Kosseir, my son shall serve you with heart and hand. One night of
pain from which your medicines have relieved me would not be repaid were
I to follow you on foot to _Misr_” (Cairo).
They then discussed together the means of facilitating Bruce’s entrance
into Abyssinia, and, after much consideration, it was agreed that the
most practicable route was by way of Kosseir and Jidda. The principal
persons of the tribe then bound themselves by an oath not to molest or
injure the traveller; but, on the contrary, in case he should ever
require it, to protect him at the hazard of their lives. They would have
extended their liberality still further, intending to present him with
seven sheep, but these, as he was going among Turks who were obliged to
maintain him, he requested they would keep for him until his return.
They then parted.
At Assuan, which he next day reached, he was very politely entertained
by the Turkish aga, who had received instructions from the bey to behave
respectfully towards the stranger. From thence he proceeded, on beasts
furnished by the aga, to the cataracts. On leaving the town they passed
over a small sandy plain, where there were numerous tombs with Arabic
inscriptions in the Kufic character; and after riding about five miles
farther, arrived at the cataracts. The fall of the waters is here so
inconsiderable that vessels are able to pass up and down; but the bed of
the river, which may perhaps be about half a mile in breadth, is divided
into numerous small channels by enormous blocks of granite, from thirty
to forty feet in height. Against these the river, running over a sloping
bottom, through a channel of insufficient breadth, dashes with extreme
noise and violence, and is thrown back in foam and a thousand whirling
eddies, which, eternally mingling with each other, produce a disturbed
and chaotic appearance which fills the mind with confusion.
On the 26th of January, after much altercation with his host, he
embarked in his kanja, and began to descend the river. Having reached
Badjoura, he employed himself until the departure of the caravan, with
which he was to cross the desert to Kosseir, in examining the
observations he had made, and in preparing his journal for publication;
in order that, should he perish, the labours he had already achieved
might not be lost. This done, he forwarded them to his friends at Cairo
till he should return, or news should arrive that he was otherwise
disposed of.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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