Having crossed this plain, they entered a close country covered with
brushwood, wild oats, and high grass, rough with rocks, and traversed by
narrow difficult passes. At one of these, called the pass of Kella, they
were detained three days by the farmers of the customs, who demanded
more than they thought proper to pay. During this delay a kind of fair
or bazaar was opened in the caravan, to which hundreds of young women
from the neighbouring villages repaired, to purchase beads and other
articles of African finery; and so eager were they to get possession of
these toys, that they could be restrained from stealing them only by
being beaten unmercifully with whips and sticks. Of chastity these
Abyssinian beauties had no conception, and abandoned themselves to the
desires of strangers without so much as requiring a reward.
The next day, after leaving Kella, they discovered in the distance the
mountains of Adowa, which in no respect resemble those of Europe, or of
any other country. “Their sides were all perpendicular, high, like
steeples or obelisks, and broken into a thousand different forms.” On
the 6th of December they arrived at Adowa, having travelled for three
hours over a very pleasant road, between hedgerows of jessamine,
honeysuckle, and many other kinds of flowering shrubs. This town, which
was made the capital of Tigrè by Ras Michael, consisted of about three
hundred houses, but each house being surrounded by a fence or screen of
trees and shrubs, like the small picturesque homesteads which skirt the
Ghauts on the coast of Malabar, the extent of ground covered was very
considerable, and from a distance the whole place had the appearance of
a beautiful grove. Within, however, were crime and wretchedness. The
palace of the governor, which was now occupied by his deputy, stood upon
the top of the hill, and resembled a huge prison. Upwards of three
hundred persons were there confined in irons, some of whom had been
imprisoned more than twenty years, solely, in most instances, for the
purpose of extorting money from them; but when they had complied with
their captor’s demands, their deliverance by no means followed. Most of
them were kept in cages like wild beasts, and treated with equal
inhumanity.
Here he was received in the most hospitable manner by Janni, the Greek
officer of the customs, to whom he had been recommended by the patriarch
of Cairo. In this town there was a valuable manufacture of coarse cotton
cloth, which circulated instead of silver money throughout Abyssinia.
The houses were built with rough stone, cemented with mud instead of
mortar—which was used only at Gondar,—and had high conical roofs,
thatched with a reedy sort of grass, rather thicker than wheat straw.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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