At this city he was detained by various circumstances until the 8th of
September, and during this period was enabled to make numerous inquiries
into the history of the country, civil and natural, together with the
manners, customs, religions, and character of its inhabitants. But when
the day of departure arrived, he proceeded with indescribable pleasure
on his journey, having the Nile on his right-hand, and the
Bahr-el-Abiad, or White River, which he never approached, on the left.
On the 21st he again crossed the Nile, and after travelling along its
banks for several days, took a long leave of its stream, and plunged
into the vast desert of Nubia. The soil here consisted of fixed gravel,
of a very disagreeable whitish colour, mixed with small pieces of white
marble and pebbles like alabaster, and wholly bare of trees. As they
proceeded, indeed, a few patches of coarse grass, with small groves of
acacia, met and refreshed the eye. On the 14th of November they halted
in a small hollow, called Waadi-el-Halboub, and “were here at once
surprised and terrified,” says Bruce, “by a sight surely one of the most
magnificent in the world. In that vast expanse of desert, from west and
to north-west of us we saw a number of prodigious pillars of sand, at
different distances, at times moving with great celerity, at others
stalking on with a majestic slowness. At intervals we thought they were
coming in a very few minutes to overwhelm us, and small quantities of
sand did actually more than once reach us. Again they would retreat, so
as to be almost out of sight, their tops reaching to the very clouds.
There the tops often separated from the bodies; and these, once
disjoined, dispersed in the air, and did not appear more. Sometimes they
were broken near the middle, as if struck with a large cannon-shot.
About noon they began to advance with considerable swiftness upon us,
the wind being very strong at north. Eleven of them ranged alongside of
us about the distance of three miles. The greatest diameter of the
largest appeared to me at that distance as if it would measure ten feet.
They retired from us with a wind at S.E., leaving an impression upon my
mind to which I can give no name, though surely one ingredient in it was
fear, with a considerable deal of wonder and astonishment. It was in
vain to think of flying: the swiftest horse or fastest sailing ship
could be of no use to carry us out of this danger, and the full
persuasion of this riveted me as if to the spot where I stood.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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