All things being thus prepared, they departed from Guayaquil, and
embarked on the river on the 3d of May, 1736. The extreme velocity and
strength of the current, and several unfortunate accidents, so greatly
retarded their progress, that they did not reach Caracol before the
11th. “The tortures we received on the river, from the mosquitoes,” says
Ulloa, “were beyond imagination. We had provided ourselves with quetres
and mosquito-cloths; but to very little purpose: the whole day we were
in continual motion to keep them off; but at night our torments were
excessive. Our gloves were indeed some defence to our hands, but our
faces were entirely exposed; nor were our clothes a sufficient defence
for the rest of our bodies, for their stings penetrating through the
cloth, caused a very painful and fiery itching. The most dismal night we
spent on this passage, was when we came to an anchor near a large and
handsome house, but uninhabited; for we had no sooner seated ourselves
in it, than we were attacked on all sides with innumerable swarms of
mosquitoes, so that we were so far from having any rest there, that it
was impossible for a person susceptible of feeling to be one moment
quiet. Those who had covered themselves with their mosquito-cloths,
after taking care that none of these malignant insects were contained in
them, found themselves in a moment so attacked on all sides that they
were obliged soon to return to the place they had quitted. Those who
were in the house, hoping that they should find some relief in the open
fields, ventured out, though in danger of suffering in a more terrible
manner from the serpents; but were soon convinced of their mistake, it
being impossible to determine which was the more desirable place, within
the mosquito-cloth, without it, or in the open fields. In short no
expedient was of any use against their numbers. The smoke of the trees
we burnt to disperse these infernal insects, besides almost choking us,
seemed rather to augment than diminish their numbers. At daybreak we
could not without concern look at each other.”
At Caracol they quitted the river, and continued their journey on the
backs of mules, through thick forests, along the course of the river
Ojibar. When, as frequently happened, they found no habitation near
their halting-place, the inconvenience was soon remedied by the
remarkable dexterity of their Indians, who running into the woods,
quickly returned with branches of trees and vijahna leaves, with which,
in less than an hour, they erected several huts large enough to contain
the whole party, and so well contrived that the rain, which fell in
torrents, could not penetrate them. They now began to ascend the distant
roots of the mountains, and felt an increasing coldness in the air. At a
place called Mamarumi, or the “Mother of Stone,” they beheld an
indescribably beautiful cascade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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