The picture which Ulloa has given of their extraordinary manner of
living would lose so much of its interest by being transferred into any
other language than his own, that I cannot resist the temptation to
continue the narrative in his words: “We generally kept within one hut,”
says he; “indeed, we were obliged to do this, both on account of the
intenseness of the cold, the violence of the wind, and our being
continually involved in so thick a fog that an object at six or eight
paces was hardly discernible. When the fog cleared up, the clouds, by
their gravity, moved nearer to the surface of the earth, and on all
sides surrounded the mountain to a vast distance; representing the sea,
with our rock like an island in the centre of it. When this happened, we
heard the horrid noises of the tempests, which then discharged
themselves on Quito and the neighbouring country. We saw the lightning
issue from the clouds, and heard the thunders roll far beneath us; and
while the lower parts were involved in tempests of thunder and rain, we
enjoyed a delightful serenity; the wind was abated, the sky clear, and
the enlivening rays of the sun moderated the severity of the cold. But
our circumstances were very different when the clouds arose; their
thickness rendered respiration difficult; the snow and hail fell
continually; and the wind returned with all its violence; so that it was
impossible entirely to overcome the fears of being, together with our
hut, blown down the precipice on whose edge it was built, or of being
buried under it by the daily accumulation of ice and snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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