From Alexandria he ascended along the canal to Rosetta. The fields, then
under water, had been sown about a week previously with rice, but it was
already three inches high; the frogs, which lay in myriads at the bottom
of the canal, croaked most hideously; the mosquitoes stung; the
buffaloes, offended at his red garments, attempted to gore him. However,
by the aid of patience and a janizary, he at length reached Rosetta,
from whence he proceeded up the Nile to Cairo. Here, at the house of Mr.
Burton, the English consul, he saw a tamarind-tree, the leaves of which
closed up in the evening at sunset, and expanded again with the dawn.
Among the curious practices of Egypt he noticed, in this city, one of
the most extraordinary: that is, that the women sometimes hatch eggs by
keeping them perpetually under their armpits, until the desired effect
is produced.
Though there are nations whose incivility is proof against the most
courteous behaviour, a traveller may almost always conjecture from the
character of his own manners the sort of reception he shall meet with in
whatever country he may visit. Hasselquist’s manners were gentle and
inoffensive, and accordingly he found even the Turks polite. Shortly
after his arrival at Cairo he was taken by the English consul to witness
a grand feast given by a Turkish gentleman on the occasion of his son’s
circumcision. It had already lasted thirty days, during all which time
he had kept open house, and accompanied his repasts by fireworks,
illuminations, concerts, and dances. The fireworks, though inferior to
those sometimes set off in Europe, were extremely fine; and the
illumination was brilliant and ingenious. However, the most curious part
of the spectacle, in the opinion of Hasselquist, were the spectators
themselves, who, seated in a ring on the ground, looked with invincible
gravity at the various efforts which were made to amuse them. The
Christian guests, immediately on their arrival, were presented with
coffee and carpets, and they sat down and imitated the silent manner of
the other guests. Hasselquist was assured that the expense of this feast
of thirty days would not amount to less than eight thousand ducats; but,
in return, the master of the house received presents of immense value on
the occasion, not less, it was reported, than thirty camel-loads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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