Having visited the mummy-pits, and studied with great care the natural
history of Cairo and its environs, he descended the Nile to Damietta.
The soil of this part of Egypt, even when the inundation fails, is
rendered extremely fertile by the heavy dews, for which it is indebted
to its vicinity to the sea, and by the rain which falls at intervals
during the whole winter and spring. It was about the middle of March
when he arrived in this city, and already the male-palm had begun to put
forth its blossoms. The female tree flowered a few days later. One of
the latter, a magnificent tree, equal in height to a Norway pine, grew
in a garden directly opposite his window. On the evening of the 20th of
March it had not yet put forth its blossoms; but when he rose next
morning before the sun, he found it had flowered during the night, and
saw the gardener climbing up to its summit with a handful of the male
flowers in his hand, which he scattered over those of the female tree.
This was done while the dew was yet falling; and our enthusiastic
naturalist regarded the sight as one of the most delightful in nature.
He set sail from Damietta on the 1st of April, and in four days arrived
at Jaffa, in the Holy Land. Here he was entertained at a convent of
Catholic monks, the principal of whom, a Spaniard by nation, was greatly
scandalized at learning that motives foreign to devotion had directed
his steps to Palestine. Next day, however, he escaped from their
impertinent inquiries, and set out for Jerusalem. The country from Jaffa
to Rama consists of a succession of small hills alternating with narrow
valleys and wide plains, some cultivated, others barren. The soil was a
light reddish sand, and so filled with moles that there was scarcely a
yard of ground in which there was not a molehill.
On arriving at Jerusalem he visited all the holy places usually shown to
strangers, and then set out with the other pilgrims for Jericho and the
Dead Sea. Descending along the banks of the Jordan, the waters of which
he found very inferior to those of the Nile, he arrived on the barren
shores of the Asphaltic Lake, consisting of a gray sandy clay, so
extremely soft that their horses often sunk in it up to their knees. The
whole plain was covered with salt like the soil of Egypt, and various
kinds of plants and flowers were found growing on it. The apples of
Sodom, those
——Dead Sea fruits that tempt the eye,
But turn to ashes on the lips,—
were found in abundance near Jericho. This apple is the fruit of the
_solanum melongena_ of Linnæus, and is sometimes actually filled with
dust or ashes. But this happens when the fruit has been attacked by the
_tenthredo_ insect, which, absorbing all the moisture of the pulp,
converts the harder particles into dust, while the skin retains its form
and colours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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