However this may be, upon Mr. Montague’s being appointed ambassador to
the Porte in 1716, our traveller, smitten with the desire of tasting the
pleasures of other lands, resolved to desert all her admirers, and visit
with her husband the shores of the Hellespont. They commenced their
journey in August; and having crossed the channel, proceeded by
Helvoetsluys and the Brill to Rotterdam, where she greatly admired the
thronged streets, neat pavements, and extreme cleanliness of the place,
which at present would scarcely strike a traveller arriving from London
as any thing extraordinary. In travelling from Holland, the whole
country appeared like a garden, while the roads were well paved, shaded
on both sides with rows of trees, and bordered with canals, through
which great numbers of boats were perpetually passing and repassing. The
eye, moreover, was every minute alighting upon some villa; while
numerous towns and villages, all remarkable for their neatness, dotted
the plains, and enlivened the mind of the traveller by exciting ideas of
plenty and prosperity.
At Cologne, whither she had proceeded by way of the Hague and Nimeguen,
she was greatly amused at the Jesuits’ church by the free raillery of a
young Jesuit, who, not knowing, or pretending not to know, her rank,
allowed himself considerable liberties in his conversation. Our
traveller herself fell in love with St. Ursula’s pearl necklaces; and,
as the saint was of silver, her profane wishes would fain have converted
her into dressing-plate. These were the only relics of all that were
shown her for which she had any veneration; but she very shortly
afterward learned, that, at least as far as the pearls and other
precious stones were concerned, the holy fathers had been very much of
her opinion; for, judging that false jewels would satisfy a saint as
well as true ones, they sold the real pearls, &c., and supplied their
places with imitations. Our lady-traveller, though exceedingly
aristocratical in her notions, and possessed of but small respect for
mere untitled human beings, was compelled by her natural good sense to
remark, what other observers have frequently repeated since her time,
the extreme superiority of the free towns of Germany over those under
the government of absolute princes. “I cannot help fancying one,” she
says, “under the figure of a clean Dutch citizen’s wife, and the other
like a poor town lady of pleasure, painted and ribanded out in her
headdress, with tarnished silver-laced shoes, a ragged under-petticoat;
a miserable mixture of vice and poverty.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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