that traveller after traveller paces around the mysterious obelisks,
columns, and sarcophagi of Karnac and Edfu. Countries which have never,
so far as we know, been inhabited by any but savage tribes, however
magnificent may be their scenery, however fertile their soil, can never,
in the estimation of the philosophical traveller, possess equal
attractions with India, Persia, Egypt, or Greece: they resemble so many
theatrical scenes without actors; and after amusing the eye or the
imagination for a brief space of time, excite a mortal _ennui_ which
nothing can ward off. The world itself would be a dull panorama without
man. It is only as the scene of his actions, passions, sufferings,
glory, or shame, that its various regions possess any lasting interest
for us. Where great men have lived or died, there are poetry,
romance,—every thing that can excite the feelings or elevate the mind.
“Gray Marathon,” Thermopylæ, Troy, Mantinea, Agincourt, Waterloo, are
more sublime names than Mont Blanc or the Himalaya. On the former we are
lifted up by the remembrance of human energy; the latter present
themselves to us as prodigious masses of brute matter, sublime
undoubtedly, but linked by no glorious associations with the triumphs or
the fall of great or brave men.
The above remarks appeared necessary to explain why we are never weary
of accompanying travellers through Egypt, Palestine, and the other
celebrated lands which border the Mediterranean: I now proceed with the
adventures and researches of Pococke. On arriving at Alexandria, a city
which, when taken by the Arabs, contained four thousand palaces, as many
baths, four hundred public places or squares, and forty thousand Jews
who paid tribute, he immediately exerted himself to gratify his
curiosity, and this so imprudently, that he led several soldiers into a
breach of duty, in showing him the ruins of the ancient Pharos without
permission, for which they were afterward punished. Several travellers
have pretended that the coffin of Alexander the Great is still preserved
in a Mohammedan mosque in this city, and we find Bruce, thirty years
after Pococke, making very diligent inquiry among the inhabitants
respecting it. It is certain that the remains of the Macedonian king
were deposited in a golden coffin in the royal tombs of Alexandria; but
in the age of Augustus his bones had already been transferred from their
gorgeous lodgings to humbler ones of glass, in which they were brought
forth from their narrow house for the inspection of the tyrant, who
threw flowers and placed a golden crown upon the coffin. However, when
we reflect that even in so peaceful a city as Caen, the remains of
William the Conqueror could not be preserved a few hundred years from
popular insult, it seems extremely improbable that those of Alexander
should have been suffered to escape for two thousand years in a place
which has experienced so many and such dreadful vicissitudes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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