winds; he measured their dimensions; descended into the well; and
speculated on their use and origin.
Shortly after his visit to the pyramids, he set out on an excursion to
the district of Faioum, and the Birket el Keroun, or Lake Mœris, with
the governor of the province, who happened to be just then returning
home from Cairo. His companion was a middle-aged Mussulman, of a lively,
cheerful temper, who made no scruple of associating with a Frank, or
even of eating with him, and drinking _liqueurs_, which are not
prohibited in the Koran, not having been invented when it was written.
It could not, however, be said that they fared too luxuriously on the
way; their meals, like those of Forster and his Ghilān Seid, consisted
for the most part of bread, cheese, and onions. After this frugal
supper, they reposed at night in a grove of palm-trees.
Having traversed a succession of small desert plains, sprinkled with
Egyptian flints, they entered a valley bounded on both sides by hills,
composed entirely of oyster-shells, which rest on a bed of reddish clay.
Of these shells the uppermost remain in their original state, while
those which lie deeper, or are scattered over the plain, are petrified.
On arriving at Tamish, the most northern village of the district, the
kasheff, or governor, was met by several Arabs, who, observing him to be
accompanied by a stranger, immediately began to exhibit their skill in
horsemanship, and in the management of the lance. Here the quality of
their fare improved. The onions were replaced by pilaus, roast lamb,
fowl, soup, and sherbets; and in the morning they had for breakfast
bread and butter, poached eggs, honey, cheese, and olives. Faioum, in
fact, should be the land of good living. It is the Arsinoitic Nome of
the ancients, which, in Strabo’s opinion, was the finest spot in all
Egypt; and although it no longer, perhaps, deserves this character, it
still produces corn, wine, olives, vegetables,—in one word, whatever
they choose to sow or plant will thrive. The olive, which requires
cultivation in the gardens of Alexandria, grows spontaneously in this
district. The grapes, too, are of a superior quality, and so sweet that
a thick syrup made from them serves the Mohammedans instead of sugar.
But Pococke soon found that even wine was not an unknown blessing in the
Arsinoitic Nome; for, at a supper to which he invited the traveller, the
honest kasheff got a little tipsy, threw off his gravity, and behaved as
frivolously, says Pococke, as a European.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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