Pococke arrived at Jaffa on the 14th of March, where, having delivered
up his money, according to custom, to the monks, lest he should be
robbed by the Arabs, he immediately departed by way of Rama for
Jerusalem. The country, at this time, was in a state of great confusion.
Feuds of the most desperate kind existed among the numerous Arab clans
encamped in this part of Palestine; and from whatever tribe the
traveller might take a guide, he necessarily exposed himself during the
journey to the hostility of every other horde. However, since the danger
was inevitable, and, perhaps, after his tame and secure movements in
Egypt, somewhat necessary to give a greater poignancy to his pleasures,
he put himself under the guidance of a respectable Arab horseman,
followed by a servant on foot, and departed on his way. The Arab, who
shared the risk, went a little out of the direct road to the place where
his tribe was encamped; and not being subject to that jealousy which
induces the Turk to keep his wife from the sight of strangers, he
introduced the traveller into his harem, and allowed him to sit down by
the fire with his wife and some other women.
It being now evening, the women, having regaled him with bread and
coffee, showed him a carpet, on which they desired him to take a little
rest. He expected they were to set out in an hour or two in order to
reach Jerusalem before day; but lay down, and, falling asleep, remained
in that comfortable position until long after sunrise next morning. The
Arab now went out and left him in the harem, when the women, who are all
the world over generous and hospitable, exerted themselves to entertain
and regale him with fresh cakes, butter, and coffee. The mistress of the
tent never quitted him for a moment, and while he remained here he was
in safety, for the precincts of the harem are sacred in the East. At
length the Arab himself returned, and promising him that they should
depart in the evening, threw a striped mantle over his shoulders, and
went out to walk with him in the fields. Contrary to his expectations,
the Arab actually set out with him as soon as it was dark, and carefully
avoiding all villages, camps, and inhabited places, in every one of
which he anticipated danger, he arrived safely with him at Jerusalem two
hours before day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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