Shortly after Niebuhr’s arrival at Abusheher, Mr. Jervis determined
upon sending a quantity of merchandise to Shiraz; and his intention was
no sooner made public, than a number of petty merchants, together with
several families from the interior, who had been expelled from their
homes by the troubles consequent upon the death of Nadir Shah, desired
to unite themselves to his party; and thus a small kafilah was at once
formed. So excellent an opportunity of visiting the most beautiful city
of Persia, as well as the famous ruins of Persepolis, was not to be
overlooked. Our traveller therefore joined the trading caravan, and on
the 15th of February set out for the interior.
For this journey, however, he was but badly prepared. He was wholly
ignorant of the Persian language, and therefore, had he not by great
good fortune found some persons among the party who spoke Arabic, as
well as an Armenian who was a tolerable master of the Italian, he must
have been reduced to depend upon the universal but scanty language of
signs. Strange to say, likewise, he had abandoned the oriental costume,
though fully aware, by his own account, of the advantages to be
derived from it by a traveller. In other respects he conducted himself
judiciously; for, understanding that the English, notwithstanding the
troubled state of Persia, had nowhere any thing to fear, he represented
himself as an Englishman; and thus, without passport or formal
permission, he travelled with perfect freedom and safety. He observed
during this journey a curious superstition among the Armenians, of
which he had nowhere else discovered any traces: having despatched his
servant upon some business at a distance from the encampment, he was
one day compelled to act as his own cook, and was about to cut off
the head of a fowl. His face at that moment happening to be turned
towards the west, an Armenian who was present informed him that a
Christian should turn his face to the east when he killed a fowl, no
less than when he prayed. Others (as the affair was a serious business)
conjectured that he turned towards Mecca, either that his servant,
who was a Mohammedan, might conscientiously partake of the food, or
because that in reality was his _kebleh_. Seeing, however, that people
endeavoured to decide respecting his religion by the mode in which he
slaughtered a hen, he for the future relinquished to his servant the
art and mystery of cookery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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