From Persepolis he returned by the way of Shiraz to Abusheher, where
he embarked in one of the country vessels for the island of Karak,
where he was hospitably received and entertained by the Dutch merchants
settled there; and after a short stay, proceeded to Bassorah. Here he
embarked in a small vessel which was about to sail up the Euphrates
to Hillah. His companion, during this voyage, was an officer of the
janizary corps, who lay in a small chamber close to Niebuhr’s cabin,
and appeared to be at the point of death. In other respects this little
voyage, which occupied twenty-one days, was sufficiently agreeable.
The passengers were remarkable for their good-humour and obliging
disposition; and often, when our traveller set up his quadrant on the
banks of the stream, they stood round him in a circle, while he was
making his observations, to screen him from the wind with their long
flowing dresses.
At Rumahia, a small village on the Euphrates, he lodged with two of his
Mohammedan companions at the house of a Soonnee, who happened to be the
_moollah_ of a mosque. Soon after their arrival, our traveller entered
into conversation with his host, and their discourse turning on the
subject of marriage, he observed, among other things, that in Europe
a man, when he gives his daughter to any one in wedlock, is generally
accustomed to add a considerable sum of money. This custom greatly
delighted the moollah. “Do you hear,” says he to his mother-in-law,
who was sitting near him, while the daughter was preparing their
_pilau_,--“do you hear what the stranger is saying? It was not thus
that you acted towards me, my mother; I was compelled to pay you a sum
of money before you would give me your daughter!” The mother-in-law,
after patiently hearing him to the end, replied, “Ah! my son, upon
what should I and my daughter have subsisted, had I given thee my
field and my date-trees?” This slight interruption in the conversation
having ceased, Niebuhr, resuming the thread of the discourse, remarked,
that in Europe no man could possess more than one wife, under pain of
death; that married persons enjoyed every thing in common; and that
their property descended to their children. It was now the old lady’s
turn to be eloquent. “Well, my son,” says she, “have you marked what
the gentleman has just related? Ah! what justice prevails in those
countries! Ah! had you no other wife than my daughter, and could I be
sure you would never divorce her, how willingly would I relinquish to
you my house, and all I possess!” The young woman, who had hitherto
seemed to pay no attention to what was said, now likewise joined in the
discussion. “Alas! my husband!” said she, “how can you desire that my
mother should give you her house? You would soon bestow it upon your
other wives. You love them better than me. I see you so seldom!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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