His stay at Babylon was brief, and on the 5th of January, 1766, he left
it to proceed towards Bagdad, where he remained until the 3d of March,
awaiting the departure of a caravan for Syria. At length, finding no
better companions, he departed with a kafilah composed wholly of Jews,
from one of whom, who had travelled much in the country, he expected
to derive considerable information. He still possessed the sultan’s
firman, which he had procured at Constantinople, and had likewise
provided himself with a passport from the Pasha of Bagdad. He therefore
anticipated no interruption on the way. In proceeding from Bagdad to
Mousul, he traversed the plain on which the great battle of Arbela,
which reduced Persia to a Macedonian province, was gained by Alexander.
Ruin and desolation have since that day been busily at work in these
countries. Among the vagabonds who now roam over or vegetate upon these
renowned scenes, are a strange people, accused by many writers of
worshipping the devil; I mean the _Yezeedis_, who, though suspected by
Niebuhr of being an offshoot from the Beyazi sect of Oman, appear to
be rather the descendants of the ancient Manichæans, or a remnant of
the Hindoo population, worshippers of _Siva_, hurled into this obscure
haunt by the storms of war.
At Mousul, where he found numerous Catholic and Nestorian Christians,
he was received with extreme scorn, because his worthy coreligionists
learned that he did not fast during Lent. However, by allowing himself
to be defrauded a little by a Dominican father, a dealer in coins and
physic, he quickly regained his character, and, during the remainder of
his stay, was reputed a very good Christian. From this city he departed
with a numerous caravan, bound partly for Aleppo, partly for Mardin,
Orfah, or Armenia. The whole number of the travellers, including
a guard of fifty soldiers, and about three or four hundred Arabs,
amounted to little less than a thousand men. Yet, notwithstanding
their numbers, the slightest report of there being a horde of Kurds in
their neighbourhood threw these gallant warriors into consternation,
and, upon one particular occasion, their confusion was so extreme
that, like the honest knight of La Mancha, they mistook a flock of
sheep for an army. The robbers on this road are exceedingly expert
in their vocation; and one of the merchants of the caravan, who
had often travelled by this route, amused Niebuhr with an anecdote
illustrative of their skill, which deserves to be repeated:--He was one
night encamped, he said, on the summit of a steep hill, and for the
greater security had pitched his tent on the edge of the precipice.
He himself kept watch until midnight, at which time he was relieved
by his servant, who, as it would appear, soon fell asleep. On awaking
about daybreak he observed a robber in the tent. He had already
fastened the hook, with which he meant to perform his feat, in a bale
of merchandise; but sprang out of the tent, upon perceiving he was
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