Burckhardt, however, had acquired the habit of suspecting every thing,
not because he himself could have been guilty of an untruth, for he
was a high-spirited and honourable man, but because he generalized too
hastily. I readily pardon his error, therefore, and trust that his
involuntary injustice may be injurious neither to Bruce’s character,
nor to his own. His picture of what he endured in the course of this
journey is sufficient to account for any little asperity of manner
observable in his travels. “For myself,” says he, in describing what
daily occurred at their halting-places, “I was often driven from the
coolest and most comfortable birth into the burning sun, and generally
passed the midday hours in great distress; for besides the exposure to
heat, I had to cook my dinner, a service which I could never prevail
upon any of my companions, even the poorest servants, to perform for
me, though I offered to let them share my homely fare. In the evening
the same labour occurred again, when fatigued by the day’s journey,
during which I always walked for four or five hours, in order to spare
my ass, and when I was in the utmost need of repose. Hunger, however,
always prevailed over fatigue, and I was obliged to fetch and cut wood,
to light a fire, to cook, to feed the ass, and finally to make coffee,
a cup of which, presented to my Daraou companions, who were extremely
eager to obtain it, was the only means I possessed of keeping them in
tolerable good-humour. A good night’s rest, however, always repaired
my strength, and I was never in better health and spirits than during
this journey, although its fatigues were certainly very great, and much
beyond my expectation. The common dish of all the travellers at noon
was fetyre, which is flour mixed up with water into a liquid paste, and
then baked upon the sadj, or iron plate; butter is then poured over
it, or honey, or sometimes a sauce is made of butter and dried bamyé.
In the evening some lentils are boiled, or some bread is baked with
salt, either upon the sadj or in ashes, and a sauce of bamyé, or onion,
poured over lentils, or upon the bread, after it has been crumbled
into small pieces. Early in the morning every one eats a piece of dry
biscuit, with some raw onions or dates.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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