Notwithstanding all these difficulties and sufferings, our traveller
considered the Nubian desert, at least as far south as Shigre, far
less terrible than that of Syria or Tyh. Trees and water are much
more frequent, and though it be intersected in various directions by
shaggy barren rocks, the more desolate and awful appearance which it
acquires from this circumstance is, in a great measure, compensated for
by its consequent grandeur and variety. “Here,” says the traveller,
“during the whole day’s march, we were surrounded on all sides by lakes
of mirage, called by the Arabs Serab. Its colour was of the purest
azure, and so clear that the shadows of the mountains that bordered
the horizon were reflected on it with the greatest precision, and the
delusion of its being a sheet of water was thus rendered still more
perfect.” This mockwater, however, only served to heighten the terrors
which the scarcity of real water excited. Every man now began to attach
the greatest importance to the small stock he possessed. Burckhardt,
who possessed but two draughts of water in the world, drank the moiety
of it at once, reserving the remainder for the next day; but, observing
the general scarcity, shared the dejection of his companions. At
length, their condition having become nearly desperate, they adopted
the course recommended by the Ababde chief, and despatched ten or
twelve of their companions, mounted on as many camels, to the nearest
part of the Nile, which was not more than five or six hours distant;
but its banks being inhabited in this part by fierce hostile tribes,
nothing but the fear of instant death could have forced them upon this
step. They timed their march in such a manner that they would reach the
banks of the river by night; when they were directed to select some
uninhabited spot, and having there loaded their camels, to return with
all speed. “We passed the evening,” says Burckhardt, “in the greatest
anxiety, for if the camels should not return, we had little hopes
of escape either from thirst or from the sword of our enemies, who,
if they had once got sight of our camels, would have followed their
footsteps through the desert, and would certainly have discovered us.
Many of my companions came in the course of the evening to beg some
water of me, but I had well hidden my treasure, and answered them by
showing my empty skins. We remained the greater part of the night in
silent and sullen expectation of the result of our desperate mission.
At length, about three o’clock in the morning, we heard the distant
hallooings of our companions; and soon after refreshed ourselves with
copious draughts of the delicious water of the Nile.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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