Several fakies were reading the Koran in a low tone of voice. A great
faky afterward came in, whose arrival was the signal for reciting the
Koran in loud songs, in the manner customary in the East, in which I
joined them. This was continued for about half an hour, until dinner
was brought in, which was very plentiful, as a cow had been killed
upon the occasion. After a hearty meal, we recommenced our reading.
One of the sheïkhs produced a basketful of white pebbles, over which
several prayers were read. These pebbles were destined to be strewed
over the tomb of the deceased in the manner which I had often observed
upon tombs freshly made. Upon my inquiries respecting this custom,
which I confessed to have never before seen practised in any Mohammedan
country, the faky answered that it was a mere meritorious action: that
there was no absolute necessity for it; but that it was thought that
the soul of the deceased, when hereafter visiting the tomb, might be
glad to find these pebbles, in order to use them as beads in addressing
its prayers to the Creator. When the reading was over, the women began
to sing and howl. I then left the room, and on taking my departure my
kind host put some bones of roasted meat in my hand to serve for my
supper.”
In proceeding from this place to Shendy the caravan was accompanied by
several fakies, whose presence was found to be a sufficient protection
against the Nubian Bedouins. They reached Shendy on the 17th of April,
and this being, next to Sennaar and Kobbe, the largest town in eastern
Soudan, they remained here a whole month, during which time Burckhardt
enjoyed an ample opportunity of collecting materials for an account
of this and the neighbouring countries. Crocodiles are numerous in
this part of the Nile. They are much dreaded by the inhabitants, who,
when repairing to its banks for water or to wash their linen, are in
constant fear of these creatures. Burckhardt ate of the crocodile’s
flesh, which he found of a dirty white colour, not unlike young veal,
with a slight fishy smell. To bring its flesh into fashion as an
article of food would be the most certain way of rendering it rare.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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