Nothing more was said about the emir’s right to my camel, and he
declared that I should pay no duty for my slave, though he was entitled
to it.”
Burckhardt now disposed of his camel, and took his passage to Jidda
in one of the country vessels. After tossing about the Red Sea for
nearly a fortnight, visiting Macouar, and several points of the
African coast, he arrived at Jidda on the 18th of July, 1814. His
first care now was to present his letter of credit, which being of
an old date, however, he was refused payment, though the merchant
offered him a lodging at his house. This he accepted, but removed, two
days afterward, to a public khan, where he was attacked by a fever,
in which he lay delirious for several days. His recovery from this
violent disorder, which he attributed to his indulging in the fine
fruits of the Jidda market, seems to have been chiefly owing to the
kindness of a Greek captain, who, having been his fellow-passenger from
Suakin, attended him during one of his lucid intervals, and, at his own
request, procured a barber, who bled him copiously.
Here our traveller was reduced to the hard necessity of parting
with his slave, for whom he obtained forty-eight dollars, of which
thirty-two were profit. With this he dressed himself in the guise of a
reduced Egyptian gentleman, and determined to remain in the Hejaz until
the time of the pilgrimage in the following November. However, as his
funds were far too low to enable him to live independently until that
period, he began to turn his thoughts towards manual labour; but first
determined upon trying the effect of a direct application to Mohammed
Aly, then at Tayef. He accordingly wrote to his highness’s Armenian
physician, who was likewise at Tayef with his master, requesting him to
learn from the pasha whether he would accept a bill upon Burckhardt’s
correspondent at Cairo, and order his treasurer at Jidda to pay the
amount of it. Before the result of this application could be known,
he received an invitation to the house of Tousoun Pasha’s physician,
who, upon being made acquainted with the state of his finances, kindly
offered him the sum of three thousand piasters (about 100_l._) for a
bill upon Cairo payable at sight. Mohammed Aly, to whom his condition
was accidentally made known, immediately despatched a messenger with
two dromedaries, an order for five hundred piasters, and a request that
he would repair immediately with the same messenger to Tayef. With this
invitation, which was, in fact, equivalent to a command, he thought
it necessary to comply, and accordingly set off on the same afternoon
(24th of August) for the interior of the Hejaz.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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