I have purposely made use of Burckhardt’s own words in describing
the Black Stone, and several other objects of curiosity, that the
reader may see the exact impressions which they made on the mind
of the traveller; though, as his style is very diffuse, it would
frequently not have been difficult to compress his meaning into a much
smaller compass. I cannot, however, pursue the same course with his
description of the Hadj; which, notwithstanding its interest, is far
too voluminous for the space which I can bestow upon it. On the 21st
of November, 1814, the approach of the Syrian caravan was announced by
a messenger, whose horse dropped down dead the moment he dismounted.
Several other persons followed in about two hours after; and during
the night, the main body, with the Pasha of Damascus at its head, came
up, and encamped in the plain of Sheïkh Mahmoud. Next morning the
Egyptian caravan likewise arrived; and at the same time Mohammed Aly,
who desired to be present at the Hadj, appeared unexpectedly at Mecca,
dressed in an ihram composed of two magnificent shawls of Kashmeer. All
the hajjîs residing in the city now assumed the ihram, with the usual
ceremonies, at their own lodgings, preparatory to their setting out
for Arafat, and at noon heard a short sermon in the mosque.
The city was now full of movement and activity: all the pilgrims were
preparing to set out for Arafat, some running hither and thither
in search of lodgings, others visiting the markets, or the Kaaba.
Many Meccawys, engaged in petty traffic, were hastening to establish
themselves on the mountain, for the accommodation of the pilgrims.
Camel-drivers led their beasts through the streets, offering them to
the pilgrims for hire. On the 24th of November, the Syrian caravan,
with the Mahmal, or sacred camel, in front, passed in procession
through the city. The majority of the pilgrims rode in a species of
palanquin, placed upon their camels; but the Pasha of Damascus, and
other grandees, were mounted in tackhtravans, or splendid litters,
which were borne by two camels. The heads of these picturesque animals
were decorated with feathers, tassels, and bells. Crowds of people of
all classes lined the streets, and greeted the pilgrims as they passed
with loud acclamations and praise. The martial music of the pasha,
twelve finely-caparisoned horses led in front of his tackhtravan,
and the rich litters in which his women rode, particularly attracted
attention. The Egyptian caravan followed soon after, and, consisting
entirely of military pilgrims in the splendid Turkish costume, was no
less admired than its predecessor. Both continued, without stopping,
their march to Arafat, and were almost immediately followed by the
other pilgrims in the city, and by far the greater proportion of the
population of Mecca and Jidda, among whom our traveller likewise
proceeded to the sacred hill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account