Clarke and his companion having passed the Alps, which, however
frequently seen, still maintain their rank among the most sublime
objects in nature, descended into Italy, visited Turin and Rome, and
then proceeded to Naples, in which city and its environs they remained
nearly two years. In the summer of 1793 there was, as is well known, an
eruption of Mount Vesuvius, which our traveller, now an inhabitant of
Naples, enjoyed ample opportunities of visiting. And here a striking
manifestation of the daring intrepidity of the English occurred: for
not only Clarke himself, part of whose business as a traveller it
was to familiarize himself with danger, but numbers of other English
gentlemen, and even ladies, ascended to the mouth of the burning crater
and the sources of lava-streams in an active state for mere amusement;
where, on one occasion, a lady narrowly escaped death from a large
stone from the volcano, which flew by her like a wheel. At another time
the whole party were menaced with the fate of the elder Pliny. It was
in the month of February. “I found the crater in a very active state,”
says Clarke, “throwing out volleys of immense stones transparent with
vitrification, and such showers of ashes involved in thick sulphurous
clouds as rendered any approach to it extremely dangerous. We ascended
as near as possible, and then crossing over to the lava attempted
to coast it up to its source. This we soon found was impossible,
for an unfortunate wind blew all the smoke of the lava hot upon us,
attended at the same time with such a thick mist of minute ashes from
the crater, and such fumes of sulphur, that we were in danger of
being suffocated. In this perplexity I had recourse to an expedient
recommended by Sir W. Hamilton, and proposed immediately crossing
the current of liquid lava to gain the windward side of it; but felt
some fears, owing to the very liquid appearance the lava there had so
near its source. All my companions were against the scheme, and while
we stood deliberating, immense fragments of stone and huge volcanic
bombs that had been cast out by the crater, but which the smoke had
prevented us from observing, fell thick about us, and rolled by with a
velocity that would have crushed any of us, had we been in the way. I
found we must either leave our present spot, or expect instant death;
therefore, covering my face with my hat, I rushed upon the lava and
crossed over safely to the other side, having my boots only a little
burnt and my hands scorched. Not one of my companions, however, would
stir, nor could any persuasion of mine avail in getting a single guide
over to me. I then saw clearly the whole of the scene, and expected
my friends would every moment be sacrificed to their own imprudence
and want of courage, as the stones from the crater fell continually
around them, and vast rocks of lava bounded by them with great force.
At last I had the satisfaction of seeing them retire, leaving me
entirely alone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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