Le Vaillant, who had taken care to provide himself previous to his
departure from Amsterdam with numerous letters of recommendation,
was received with remarkable attention by several individuals of
distinction at the Cape. His design of exploring the remoter districts
of the colony and the adjacent countries fortunately excited no
jealousy or suspicion in their minds, and therefore, instead of
labouring, as petty colonial governments too frequently do, to obstruct
the interests of science, they evinced a disposition to favour the
views of the traveller, entertained him with profuse hospitality during
the many months which the preparations for his journey required him to
remain among them, and, which to him was still more important, exerted
their influence and authority to facilitate his movements towards the
countries of the interior. So agreeable a reception could not, of
course, fail to produce its effect upon the mind of the traveller.
It quite melted away his affected misanthropy. He found himself in
good-humour with mankind, and, as if benevolence and philanthropy were
the peculiar attributes of the natives of Holland, observes, that this
species of politeness was what he had reckoned upon, for that he knew
he had to deal with Dutchmen!
His remarks upon Cape Town, now no longer in the possession of the
Dutch, are sufficiently curious, as they enable us to contrast its
appearance fifty years ago with that which it at present wears under
English government. Though a large proportion of the houses were
spacious and handsome, the streets, in spite of their great breadth,
appeared disagreeable even to a Frenchman, on account of the badness of
the pavement, and the stench which everywhere offended the nostrils,
arising from the heads, feet, and intestines of slaughtered animals
which the butchers of the company were in the habit of casting forth
in heaps before their doors, and which, with more than Ottomite
negligence, the authorities allowed to putrefy upon the spot. The
effluvia proceeding from these abominations Le Vaillant with reason
regarded as one of the active causes of those epidemics which usually
prevailed in the city during those seasons in which the violent
south-east wind had not blown. While this cleansing wind was performing
its operations, the streets were almost rendered impassable. The
hurricane, precipitating from the mountains dense masses of vapour,
raged for several days with indescribable impetuosity, overthrowing
every thing in its course, and filling all places, even to the closets,
trunks, and drawers, with dust. Trees and plants were frequently torn
up by the roots; and well-planted gardens were rendered in the course
of twenty-four hours as bare and naked as a desert.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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