Next morning, accordingly, they proceeded towards the island. In
proportion as they advanced, the noise, increasing in loudness, more
and more excited their curiosity; and the sound of the waves, which
broke with great violence against the rocks, contributed not a little
to swell the deep murmur, the cause of which no one could conjecture.
They landed at length amid spray and foam, and, clambering up the
cliffs, succeeded with much difficulty in reaching the summit. Here
they beheld a sight such, in the opinion of our traveller, as no mortal
ever beheld before. There arose in a moment from the surface of the
earth an impenetrable cloud, which formed, at the height of forty
feet above their heads, a prodigious canopy, or rather sky, of birds
of every kind and colour. “Cormorants, sea-swallows, pelicans,--in
one word,” says he, “all the winged creatures of Southern Africa were
collected, I verily believe, in that spot. The screams of so enormous
a multitude of birds mingling together formed an infernal species of
music, which seemed to rend the ear with its piercing notes.
“The alarm,” he adds, “was so much the greater, among these innumerable
legions of birds, in that it was the females with whom we had
principally to deal, it being the season of nesting. They had therefore
their nests, their eggs, their young ones to defend, and were as fierce
as so many harpies. They deafened us with their cries. They stooped
upon the wing, and in darting past us, brushed our faces. It was in
vain that we fired our pieces; nothing could frighten away this living
cloud. We could scarcely take a single step without crushing some eggs
or young birds: the earth was covered by them.”
They found the caverns and hollows of the rocks inhabited by seals
and sea-lions, of the latter of which they killed one specimen of
enormous size. The various creeks of the island afforded a retreat to
the manchot, a species of penguin, two feet in height, the wings of
which, being entirely devoid of feathers, are only used in swimming. On
land they hang down by the side of the body in a negligent manner, and
communicate to the appearance and air of the bird something peculiarly
sinister and funereal. These dismal-looking birds crowded every part
of the island, but were nowhere so numerous as about the Dane’s tomb,
around which they clustered as if to defend it from violation, and with
their startling, melancholy cry, which mingled with the roar of the
seal and the sea-lion, gave an air of sadness to the scene which deeply
affected the soul. In itself the tomb was rude and simple,--a single
block of stone, without name or inscription.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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