Notwithstanding these circumstances, which reflect but little honour
on Mohammed Ali, Belzoni found, upon calculation, that his finances
would still enable him to ascend the Nile as far as Assouan; and was
about to proceed up the country when Burckhardt and Mr. Salt, who had
previously discussed the point together, determined upon the removal
of the colossal head of young Memnon to England, for the purpose of
being presented to the British Museum; and requested our traveller,
as one of the fittest persons that could be thought of, to undertake
the task. The expenses Burckhardt and Mr. Salt were to defray between
them. A report was, it seems, circulated even during the lifetime of
Belzoni, and previous to the publication of his travels, that in this
affair he was merely the paid agent of Mr. Salt (for, as a professed
Mohammedan, Burckhardt did not choose to appear). This, however, was
clearly not the case. The expenses incurred in the undertaking they
could do no other than defray. Mr. Salt’s instructions are written,
as Belzoni himself observes, in an assuming style, but nevertheless
have not the air of being addressed to a paid agent. But the testimony
of Sheïkh Burckhardt, which I insert in justice to the memory of an
enterprising and worthy man, completely sets the matter at rest. In
a letter addressed to the African Association, dated Cairo, February
20th, 1817, he says, “You will be pleased to hear that the colossal
head from Thebes has at last, after many difficulties, safely arrived
at Alexandria. Mr. Belzoni, who offered himself to undertake this
commission, has executed it with great spirit, intelligence, and
perseverance. The head is waiting now at Alexandria for a proper
conveyance to Malta. Mr. Salt and myself have borne the expenses
jointly; and the trouble of the undertaking has devolved upon Mr.
Belzoni, whose name I wish to be mentioned, if ever ours shall, on this
occasion, because he was actuated by public spirit fully as much as
ourselves.”
Few things are more interesting in themselves, or less captivating
in description, than a search after antiquities. Belzoni, after
visiting Hermontis and Dendara, arrived at Thebes, which, from the
time of Germanicus to the present moment, has excited the wonder and
admiration of every traveller who has beheld it. “It is absolutely
impossible,” says Belzoni, “to imagine the scene displayed, without
seeing it. The most sublime ideas that can be formed from the most
magnificent specimens of our present architecture would give a very
incorrect picture of these ruins; for such is the difference, not only
in magnitude, but in form, proportion, and construction, that even the
pencil can convey but a faint idea of the whole. It appeared to me
like entering a city of giants, who, after a long conflict, were all
destroyed, leaving the ruins of their various temples as the only proof
of their existence.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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