It has been truly remarked by Volney, that on arriving any foreign
country, how many descriptions soever you may have read of it, you
nevertheless find every thing new and strange; as if, in fact, you had
just discovered it. Denon was precisely in this predicament. He had, no
doubt, read what had been written respecting Egypt; yet he looked upon
it as a country of which little beyond the name was known in Europe,
and consequently commenced the study of its antiquities with all
possible enthusiasm. His views, though vanity had some influence in the
formation of them, were tolerably correct. Egypt has indeed been often
visited, and in many instances by able men and accomplished scholars;
but no one who has toiled, as I have, through the descriptions of these
various travellers, can avoid making the discovery that very much
remains yet to be done before we can be said to possess a thorough
knowledge of Egypt, ancient or modern.
From Alexandria Denon proceeded with Kleber’s division towards Rosetta;
clouds of Arabs hung on their front and in their rear, cutting off
every man who lagged behind, or strayed to the distance of fifty yards
from the main body. Desaix himself narrowly escaped; and several young
officers, less on the alert, were either made prisoners or shot. After
making numerous little excursions in the Delta, he set out for Upper
Egypt, which, in his opinion, had never before been visited by a
European; so that, if we interpret him literally, all the travellers
who had previously described that country were so many fiction-mongers.
In ascending the Nile, he beheld at ten leagues’ distance from Cairo
the points of the Pyramids piercing the horizon. These prodigious
monuments, which, even more powerfully than Thebes itself, command the
attention of every traveller in Egypt, he soon visited with an escort,
and sketched from various positions. The city of Cairo disappointed his
expectations, which appear to have been absurd, since he had formed his
ideas of the place from the “Arabian Nights,” rather than from the
descriptions of travellers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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