Tcherkask, their next station, which in spring was mostly under water,
seemed in some degree to resemble Venice. It was, in the opinion of
our travellers, one of the most singular towns in the world, where, in
the season of the inundation, the communication between one house and
another was preserved by a kind of balcony or gallery, raised on wooden
pillars, and running along the streets on both sides. From hence they
continued their journey along the banks of the Kuban and the frontiers
of Circassia, having in view the wild range of the Caucasus, with vast
forests of oak at its roots. The population of these districts, fierce
marauding mountaineers, beheld with regret the efforts which were
making by the Russian government to wean them from their sanguinary
habits. Their whole delight consisted in bloodshed and plunder. But
their frays had gradually become less and less frequent: “Formerly,”
said their guide, “we were ourselves a terror to our neighbours--but
we are now,” added he with a sigh--“a civilized people!” “The land on
the Russian side of the river (Kuban),” says Heber, “is but scantily
wooded; on the southern side it rises in a magnificent theatre of oak
woods, interspersed with cultivated ground, and the smoke of villages,
with the ridges of Caucasus above the whole. The nearest hills are by
no means gigantic; but there are some white peaks which rise at a vast
distance, and which proved to us that these were only the first story
of the mountain.”
Our travellers now traversed the Crimea, and proceeded across a stepp
intersected by numerous streams, inlets of the sea, and some large
salt-water lakes, to Odessa, an interesting town, which in the opinion
of Heber owed its prosperity to the administration of the Duc de
Richelieu far more than to any natural advantages. Their route now lay
across Russian Poland, Hungary, Austria, and Northern Germany. They
arrived at Yarmouth on the 14th of October, 1806, and Heber immediately
set forward to join the family circle at Hodnet, where he enjoyed the
satisfaction which every wanderer feels when returning, after a long
and toilsome journey, to his native home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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