In this city our traveller enjoyed an opportunity of observing the
manners of the Kirghees. These people purchased annually from the
Russians a number of golden eagles, used by their hunters in the chase
of the wolf, the fox, and the gazelle, and would sometimes give a horse
in exchange for one of these birds, while others were hardly valued at
a sheep, or even a small piece of money. During his stay at Orenburg he
visited the great salt-mines of Hetzkain, and learned the laborious and
ingenious methods by which the fossil salt is extracted from the bowels
of the earth. The mines are chiefly worked in summer, and the salt,
being left to accumulate until the winter months, is then transported
to distant places by the peasantry. In these solitary regions he saw
a caravan of thirty camels returning from China, having crossed the
vast deserts of Central Asia, where both men and animals had nearly
perished for want, in consequence of the excessive heat of the summer.
From thence he proceeded to the Jasper Mountains, where many stones
were found beautifully variegated; some representing, when split,
the figures of trees upon their surfaces, while others were dotted
with spots of different colours. On the summits of these mountains he
beheld numerous Kirgheesian tombs constructed with prodigious blocks of
jasper, with more than imperial magnificence.
From Orenburg he descended along the course of the Jaik, through a
mountainous country, intersected by numerous ravines, and of a wild,
desolate aspect. Near Kalmikova, on the eastern shore of the Jaik, he
saw a Kirghees camp. When the party drew near, about the close of the
day, the Kirghees seemed terrified at their approach; but were soon
reassured upon observing their pacific disposition. They then crowded
round them with joyful faces, and, bringing forth their koumiss,
or prepared mare’s milk, enabled several of Pallas’s attendants to
steep their senses in forgetfulness. Still, our honest travellers,
conscious, perhaps, that the Kirghees had some injuries to revenge
against the Russians, were fearful of passing the night in the camp,
and therefore hastened to return before dark to the city. Thence he
continued proceeding in a southern direction to the ruins of Sarai, of
which the ditch and the rampart are nearly all that now remain. It sunk
gradually with the decay of the Tartar power, until the inhabitants
at length emigrated to Chiva, and allowed it to fall entirely. The
road from thence to Gourief, on the Caspian, lies over a dry marsh,
where nothing but a few red wild-flowers meet the eye. Here Pallas
embarked in a boat with a Mons. Euler, in order to visit a small island
in the Caspian, the waters of which were of a grayish green, though
the sailors assured them that the colour farther out at sea was a
greenish black. It was said, that during summer phosphoric fires were
occasionally beheld upon its waves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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