Our traveller amused himself while on board in observing the manners
of the crew, which he considered manly though unpolished. He likewise
exercised himself daily in nautical and astronomical observations;
and by his affability and the extent of his knowledge, acquired and
preserved the respect of both officers and men. They discovered Cape
St. Vincent on the 21st of April, and a few days afterward entered the
Mediterranean, where their course was considerably retarded by calms
and contrary winds. Meanwhile the weather was beautiful, and their
eyes were refreshed with the most lovely prospects, now on the African
shores, and now on those of Europe. On the 14th of May they cast anchor
in the port of Marseilles, which was at that time crowded by Swedish,
Danish, Dutch, Spanish, and French ships, the greater number of which
were prevented from putting to sea by fear of the English fleets, which
scoured the Mediterranean, diffusing consternation and terror on all
sides.
From the agreeable society of Marseilles, rendered doubly charming in
their estimation by their previous privation, they were soon compelled
to snatch themselves away. On the 6th of June Niebuhr observed at sea
the transit of Venus, and on the 14th reached Malta. This little island
enjoys, like Ireland, the privilege of being free from serpents, which
it is supposed to owe to the interference of St. Paul; though Niebuhr
imagines that the dry and rocky nature of the soil is sufficient,
without a miracle, to account for the circumstance. The knights
observing, perhaps, a peculiar absence of bigotry in our traveller,
imagined that this indicated a leaning towards Catholicism, and
appear to have been desirous of tempting him by magnificent promises
to desert the creed of his forefathers. Though his stay in Malta was
very short, Niebuhr was careful to observe whatever curiosities the
island afforded: the great church of St. John, enriched, it is said, by
sharing the plunder of the knights, with innumerable ornaments, and a
prodigious candelabrum of gold; the hospital, where the sick, whatever
might be their medical treatment, were served with vessels of silver;
the immense corn-magazines, hewn out in the rock; the salt-mines; and
the catacombs. For some reason, however, which is not stated, he did
not see the Phenician inscription, which was still preserved in the
island.
In sailing from Malta to Smyrna he was attacked with dysentery, and
began to fear that his travels were to terminate there; but the
disorder was less serious than he imagined, and having reached Tenedos,
he embarked in a Turkish boat, and proceeded up the Dardanelles to
Constantinople. Here, though slowly, he recovered his health, and
having remained quiet two months, and provided oriental dresses, not
choosing to expose himself in the paltry costume of Europe to the
laughter of the populace, he set sail with his companions for Egypt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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