They remained at Jidda until the 14th of December, when they embarked
in one of the country vessels for Loheia. Niebuhr was not possessed
of the art of painting what he saw with the fine colours of language.
His narrative is frequently dry even to insipidity. He was observant,
he was calm, he was judicious, but he was destitute of eloquence, and
this deficiency is nowhere in his works more strongly felt than in his
account of his various voyages through the Red Sea. On the 22d they
landed on the coast of Yemen, near Fej el Jelbe, inhabited by Bedouins,
who are suspected of being pagans. A few tents were discovered on the
shore, and as soon as the travellers had landed, which they did unarmed
lest they should be taken for enemies, several of the wild natives
came down to meet them. Their appearance and dress were extraordinary.
Their dark hair descended in profusion to their shoulders; and instead
of a turban, several of them had merely a cord tied round the head,
intended, I imagine, to keep their tresses in order. Others, more
careful and industrious, had woven themselves a kind of bonnet with
green palm-leaves. A miserable waist-cloth constituted the whole of
their dress. From the eagerness of the sailors to get their lances out
of their hands they immediately discovered that they were suspected;
upon which they cast the weapons on the ground, assuring the strangers
that they had nothing to fear. Notwithstanding that they had landed in
search of provisions the Bedouins conducted them to their tents, where
two women came out to meet them. Their salutation was curious. The
women, who were unveiled, kissed the arm of the sheïkh, who, in return,
pressed their heads with his lips. The ladies then advanced towards
the strangers. Their complexion was sallow brown, they had blackened
their eyelids with surme, and died their nails with henne; and, like
the lower ranks of women in Egypt, exhibited marks of tattooing on the
chin, cheeks, and forehead. Cosmetics being rare in those countries,
they requested our travellers to favour them with a small quantity of
kohol and al henne; but they had injudiciously neglected to provide
themselves with any thing of the kind, and consequently saw themselves
in the disagreeable predicament of being compelled to refuse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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