By the seventh day the yacht was off the Palestine coast, and Joppa,
seated on her cliffs, appeared over a foaming roadstead. But when a
landing was effected, they were to hear that there had been a collision
on the Jerusalem-Joppa railway, the line blocked, travel suspended; so,
as the filthy town was congested, the Royal party took refuge in a great
restaurant-tent, set up by a Polish Jew in gaberdine and fur cap, who
vociferated invitation at the door. All was mud, beggary, narrowness,
chaos, picturesque woe. Yet work had commenced: between the upper and
the nether millstone a woman ground corn at a doorway; the camel passed
loaded; the dragoman went with quicker step. In the afternoon Spinoza,
wandering beyond the outskirts of the town, saw in an orange-grove,
sitting before a roofless hut, six diligent two-handed Jews exhaustively
drawing the cord of the cobbler; further still, and saw what could only
have been a Petticoat-Lane Jew ploughing with a little cow and a camel:
and he smiled, thanking God, and taking courage--had always loved this
land.
The next morning he procured a number of clumsy waggons, with horses,
asses, camels, and provisions; and his caravan set out, to travel all
day over a plain, a “goodly land,” the almond-tree in blossom, orange
and olive, everywhere lilies, the scarlet anemone, he considering
himself so familiar with the way, that he was their only guide, though
the morning was misty; and through the plain of Sharon they wended over
the worst roads in existence, until, passing into a country of rocks,
they made out afar the mountains of Judæa, whose patches of white stone
look like snow in sunshine, on the roads streams of wayfarers, tending
all eastward to Jerusalem, lines of camels and waggons, pedestrians
with wine-skins, mother and sucking child on the solitary ass, and the
Bedouin troop; but Spinoza was all solitary among fastnesses on the
third forenoon when he muttered nervously: “I must certainly have lost
the way”.
Thereupon he called halt, and the caravan turned back to re-find the
road, Spinoza prying on camel-back foremost, clad now in the caftan and
white robes of the Orient.
But all day the caravan wandered out of the track in a white sea of
mist: no farmstead, nor cot, but the wild vine, and the wild fig, and
twice a telegraph-tree, still with its bark on, and the abandoned hold
of a bandit-sheik. Finally, near six P.M., Spinoza, finding himself in
a valley-bottom, sent out the order to pitch camp: upon which the tents
were fixed near a brook, waggons grouped around, and animals picketed
to grass. Spinoza, the two ladies, and Loveday, then ate together at the
door of one tent; after which he rose and strolled away, thinking how
best to handle this crab of Israel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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