A fine presentation of the style of jewels worn by the Mahârânî of
Sikkim, a full-blooded Tibetan by birth, is offered by a portrait of
this queen done in oil by Damodar Dutt, a Bengali artist, in 1908, while
the Mahârânî was sharing the captivity of her husband at Darjeeling,
where they had been sequestrated by the British authorities for many
years. The elaborate and rather oppressive headdress is a typical
adornment of the queens of Sikkim; the broad bandeaux are composed of
pearls, and a brilliant color effect is produced by the rows of
alternating corals and turquoises. The gold ear-rings have a
turquoise-inlay, in concentric rings, and from the queen’s neck hangs a
long necklace of coral beads, separated at intervals by large spheres of
amber; a coral bracelet and two rings, with coral and turquoise setting
respectively, complete the very effective, if not especially costly,
jewelry.[603]
Jade girdle pendants having a talismanic quality were in great favor
during the period of the Chou dynasty (1122–249 B.C.). The typical
girdle pendant of that time was a seven-jewelled one, each of the
combined ornaments being made of some one of the choice varieties of
jade. These adornments consisted of a top-piece or brooch, whence
depended a circular central plaque (yü), flanked by two square ornaments
(kü); below followed a centre-ornament of segment form, on either side
of which was a bow-shaped jewel. The girdle ornaments were rich in
symbolic significance, the rhythmic swinging of the jades caused a
musical note whenever they came in contact with one another, or with any
metallic object; as love-trinkets they had the most fortunate meaning;
as indications of office they gained consideration and respect for the
wearers of high rank, while for those of less distinction they were so
differentiated as to become marks of the respective craft or
vocation.[604]
In Siam the girls’ heads are shaved, with the exception of the top of
the head, where a knot of hair is allowed to grow. On the fourteenth
anniversary of the girl’s birthday this “top-knot” is cut off, the
operation being accompanied by a solemn religious ceremony, to mark
and consecrate the event, which denotes the passing of the girl into
womanhood. On this occasion, the members of the family gather together
all the jewels they can secure for the adornment of the “new woman,”
and where they are not wealthy enough to provide brilliant and rich
ornaments from their own possessions kind friends will always be found
ready to supply the deficiency. In the case of the Siamese girl
figured in our plate, and of a girl companion, the Queen of Siam
herself acted as fairy godmother to the extent of furnishing from her
own private treasures a costly and suitable decoration. The gems and
ornaments worn were worth $20,000 and are said to have filled a small
steamer-trunk.[605]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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