massive ancient stone, of a _patio_ of bright flowers--carnations, nasturtiums, geraniums--as one may find a picture of El Greco in some old forgotten Church; and beneath the yellow-brown walls and grey rocks of the city are gardens of fruit-trees, where in spring nightingales sing from pomegranates in scarlet flower. It is a city of continual surprises, not to be understood or appreciated in a single day or a single visit; it gives, like El Greco’s pictures, a strong original impression at a first glance, but its inner being, its softer moments, its true significance and charm it reveals only to a patient study. Its attitude is indeed that of reserve; it seems to be holding judgment on modern civilization. It represents all that is noblest, most individual, and unbendingly austere in the spirit of Spain. INDEX A Abenabet, _King of Seville_, 101 _Afforestation_, 99 _Agriculture_, 97, 203 Ajofrín, 90 Alarcón (Pedro Antonio de), 195 Alas (Leopoldo) _Clarín_, 150, 193, 196, 197 Alfonso, _el Sabio_, quoted, 98 _Alhambra, The_, 89 Alicante, 113, 114, 115 Almería, 57, 113 Altabiscar, Poem of, 62 Altamira (Rafael), quoted, 22, 25 Amadeo I., _King of Spain_, 43, 198-199 Andalucía, 103, 128, 134-141, 186, 195 _Andalusians_, 25, 26, 90, 140, 188, 190 André (E. L.), 39 Antequera, 137 _Anti-Clericals_, 39, 40, 81, 199, 200 Aragon, 26, 100 Arenys de Mar, 104 Arriba, 75 Asturians, 26, 196 Asturias, 196 Atchuria, 64, 65 Avila, 87 Augustinians, 166, 181 Aulnoy, Mme. d’, quoted, 20, 29, 52, 59, 60, 62, 239, 240 Azorín. _See_ Martínez Ruiz. _Azulejos_, 132, 194 B Bacon (Francis), quoted, xi, 33, 34, 41, 252 Barcelona, 88, 91, 104 Baroja (Pío), 27, 93, 208, 209 Basque Provinces, 50, 63, 66-79, 210-211 _Basques_, 25, 28, 61, 62, 66-79, 209, 225 Bayonne, 63 _Beggars_, 29, 87, 126 Béhobie, bridge of, 61 Benavente (Jacinto), 27, 41 Berceo (Gonzalo de), 39, 93 Berenger (Remont), _Count of Barcelona_, 159-160 _Betting_, 73, 74 Biarritz, 63 Bidasoa, 57-61, 65 Bilbao, 60, 88 Blasco Ibáñez (Vicente), 38, 123, 149, 152, 193, 205-208 Böhl von Faber (Cecilia). _See_ Fernán Caballero. _Booksellers_, 172 Borrow (George), 53 _Brigands_, 47, 194 Browning (Robert), quoted, 248, 249, 253, 256 _Bullfights_, 38 Burgos, 87, 158, 240 Burton’s _Anatomy_, quoted, 88 Butler, _Bishop_, quoted, 35 C _Caciquismo_, 23, 204 Cadiz, 88 Calderón de la Barca (Pedro), 32, 55, 227 Cambridge, 165 Camões (Luiz), quoted, 25, 26, 251 Cantabria, 63, 223-238 Cardeña, 139 _Carlists_, 76, 78, 81, 84, 210, 211, 223, 230 Carranza, _Archbishop_, 165, 169, 170 Cartagena, 116 Castejon, 158 Castelar (Emilio), 149, 198 _Castilian language_, viii, 24, 163, 181, 193, 202, 212, 221, 222, 237, 239-243, 245 _Castilians_, 26, 93, 94, 95, 96, 212 251 Castille, 48, 54, 66, 92-96, 232, 246 Castro (León de), 166, 167, 168, 173 _Catalan language_, 241 _Catalans_, 26, 34, 79 Catalonia, 104-107 _Celestina, La_, 144