The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in EuropeWashington, Booker T.
History
The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in Europe
Washington, Booker T.
Poor -- Europe; Working class -- Europe
The sulphur mines are located on the southern slopes of the mountains
that cross Sicily from east to west. About ten miles below Campofranco
the two branches of the railway, one running directly south from
Roccapalumba, and the other running southwest from Caltanisetta, come
together a few miles above Girgenti. On the slopes of the broad valleys
through which these two branches of the railway run are located nearly
all the sulphur mines in Sicily. From these mines, which furnish
something like 70 per cent. of the world's supply of sulphur, a
constant stream of this yellow ore flows down to the sea at the port of
Girgenti.
After leaving Campofranco I travelled through this whole region. In
many places the mountain slopes are fairly honeycombed with holes
where the miners in years past have dug their way into the mountain
in search of the precious yellow mineral. For many miles in every
direction the vegetation has been blasted by the poisonous smoke and
vapours from the smelters, and the whole country has a blotched and
scrofulous appearance which is depressing to look upon, particularly
when one considers the amount of misery and the number of human lives
it has cost to create this condition. I have never in my life seen
any place that seemed to come so near meeting the description of the
"abomination of desolation" referred to in the Bible. There is even a
certain grandeur in the desolation of this country which looks as if
the curse of God rested upon it.
I am not prepared just now to say to what extent I believe in a
physical hell in the next world, but a sulphur mine in Sicily is about
the nearest thing to hell that I expect to see in this life.
As I have already said, however, there are indications that in the
sulphur mines, as elsewhere in Sicily, the situation of the man
farthest down is improving. I pray God that it is so, for I could not
picture an existence more miserable than the slow torture of this
crushing labour in the hot and poisonous air of these sulphur mines.
Let me say also that I came away from the sulphur mines and from Sicily
with a very much better opinion of the people than when I entered.
I went to Italy with the notion that the Sicilians were a race of
brigands, a sullen and irritable people who were disposed at any
moment to be swept off their feet by violent and murderous passions.
I came away with the feeling that, whatever might be the faults of
the masses of the people, they were, at the very least, more sinned
against than sinning, and that they deserve the sympathy rather than
the condemnation of the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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