The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in EuropeWashington, Booker T.
History
The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in Europe
Washington, Booker T.
Poor -- Europe; Working class -- Europe
Perhaps it was the effect of the costume, which gave them a strange
and alien appearance, but it seemed to me, at first, as if every Jew
in Cracow had exactly the same features, the same manner of walking,
and the same expression of countenance. As I watched the different
figures in the crowded streets more closely, however, I discovered that
beneath the peculiar dress and manner many different types of human
beings were concealed. There were the pale-browed students, who moved
through the crowd with a hurried and abstracted air; there were slender
and elegant aristocrats, who, while still wearing the uniform of their
race, dressed with a scrupulous correctness and looked at you with an
expression which seemed a curious mingling of the humility of the Jew
and the scorn of the Pharisee.
There was the commonplace plodding Jew, following humbly in the common
ruts of barter and trade and the daily and weekly routine which his
religion prescribed. There was the outcast beggar, dirty and wretched,
doddering aimlessly along the dirty street or sitting in some doorway,
staring disconsolately into the street. There was, also, the dirty,
gluttonous, ignorant, and brutal type, on whom neither suffering nor
fanaticism seemed to have made any impression, and who, in his Jewish
dress and manners, looked like a caricature of his more high-bred
neighbour.
I visited the ancient synagogue while I was in Cracow, which they say
was built for the Jews by that same Polish king, Kazimierz, who first
invited them to take refuge in his country. I saw there the ancient
Roll of the Laws and ancient Prayer Book which were brought from Spain
when the Jews were expelled from that country.
Nearby the synagogue is the ancient Jewish market. A narrow street
leads into an open square in the centre of which is a circular
building. Before one of the entrances of this building a man, with the
pale brow and delicate features which seem to be a mark of superiority
among the people of the Ghetto, was publicly slaughtering geese. The
square in which this building stood was surrounded on all sides by rows
of little market booths, in front of which groups of men and women
were dickering and trading for various small wares. A crowd of women
stood about the building in the centre of the square and watched the
pale-browed man, who did not seem to relish the job, as he rapidly and
dexterously performed the ceremony of cutting the throats of the geese.
These were handed to him by a good-natured looking woman, wearing an
apron and high boots, red with blood. After the geese were killed they
were hung over a pit to drain, while fresh victims were brought from
the baskets and crates standing about in the open square. A foul smell
from the open pit in which the geese were allowed to bleed filled the
square. This did not add to the dignity of the proceedings, but it
served to impress them upon my memory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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