The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
[Sidenote: _BRIXWORTH_]
The exterior and interior of the church are alike very striking, and
the curious staircase tower added to the west side of the original
tower is of particular interest, having been built on to the early
Saxon tower in later and unsettled times, for the purpose of putting
the church in a defensible condition against the forays of the Danish
rovers then laying waste the country. The entrance was formerly by a
door in the western face of the tower, but this semi-circular addition
abolished all access that way. The upper stages and the spire are, of
course, very much later, having in fact been built in the Decorated
style of the fourteenth century. Rude masonry and irregularly disposed
herring-bone patterns of Roman tile form the walls.
The interior, as of most other Saxon churches, is more curious than
beautiful, however archæologically rare it may be. It consists nowadays
of nave, chancel, semi-circular apse, and south chapel; but there were
formerly narrow north and south aisles, as the walled-in nave arcades
show. At what period these were destroyed does not appear. The apse
is a modern rebuilding of the original, destroyed about 1460, but the
ambulatory around it was not rebuilt. Large Gothic windows at various
periods replaced the original Saxon small round-headed windows of
the nave, but they have been abolished, and replicas of the Saxon
work placed in their stead; which, however pleasing to sticklers for
uniformity in matters architectural, was archæologically a crime
demanding the penalty of _peine forte et dure_, or something especially
excruciating. To destroy a genuine Decorated or Perpendicular window
for the purpose of inserting a modern “Saxon” one—probably framed in
with specially made “Roman” tiles—is distinctly Grimthorpian, and
not playing the game according to the rules understood by the most
enlightened. Recent excavations have brought to light the bases of
Roman columns in the churchyard and in the church itself, and in
short, ever since about a century ago, when people grow curious about
antiquities, the building has been a kind of archæological lucky-bag.
You scrape the plaster off a pier and discover a stone sculptured with
a Roman eagle; disregarding spiders and immemorial dust, you thrust
a hand into an ancient hole in the nave wall, and lo, out comes a
reliquary containing the “Adam’s apple” that once waggled in the holy
throat of Bishop Boniface. In fact, anything is possible at Brixworth:
More broken pans, more gods, more mugs,
Old snivel-bottles, jordans, and old jugs,
as Peter Pindar might say; while many intimate anatomical belongings of
the saints are doubtless even yet secreted on the premises.
[Sidenote: _WATER FLOWS UNWANTED_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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