The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The old churches of Leicester are fairly numerous, and very
interesting. St. Nicholas’ was built in Saxon and early Norman times,
chiefly from the materials of the Roman wall, by whose remains it
stands. Here Leicester is seen in its latest development, the
neighbourhood having been cut up and largely rebuilt since the advent
of the Great Central Railway. There remained until that event a curious
street at the side of St. Nicholas, known as “Holy Bones,” but in the
great clearances “Holy Bones” disappeared, and only gaunt remains of
houses and factories mark the site of it. The name arose from a great
find of bones here, supposed to be relics of sacrifices made in the
Temple of Janus. Their sanctity, seeing that they are thought to be the
bones of oxen, has been challenged.
St. Mary de Castro, whose spire is one of the most prominent landmarks
of the town, is unquestionably the finest church, but extraordinarily
dark. It is Norman, Early English, and Decorated, and has two naves.
But an architectural account of St. Mary’s would occupy many pages. I
like to think how here, in this very building, Henry the Sixth, at the
time only five years of age, but already four years a king, passed the
midnight vigil that formed part of a new knight’s probation. With him,
forty others were received into the ranks of chivalry. How many of them
survived the bloody Wars of the Roses that raged in after years around
the person of that unhappy King?
[Illustration: ST. MARGARET’s.]
[Sidenote: “_SMOKE FARTHING_”]
St. Margaret’s, down in the low-lying, soggy Church Gate, is not,
in its present form, the oldest church, having been rebuilt in the
Perpendicular period, but it is the successor and representative of the
mother-church of the town, built about A.D. 600, when Leicester was the
seat of a Saxon bishop. It stands not so far from the site of Leicester
Abbey, and the street of “Sanvey Gate,” at the corner, indeed derives
its name from “Sancta Via,” having been the way by which the mediæval
religions processions came and went. The great imposing tower, built
from the proceeds of a tax of “Smoke Farthing,” levied on the domestic
hearths of the parish, is now a very weathered and crumbling mass,
but all the more venerable-looking; and when the proposed restoration
has taken place, it is to be feared that much of the majesty of it,
will have vanished until such time as the surrounding factories have
deposited more soot. But that will take a considerable time, for
Leicester is not a sooty place.
For an example of thorough and unsparing restoration we must turn to
St. Martin’s. Strangers, gazing at the exterior and the tall broach
spire, imagine they have before them a new structure, but it is chiefly
an Early English building, and, as the interior proves, a very fine
one, and built on the site of a Roman temple to Diana. An epitaph of
strange human interest is seen by the south porch:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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