The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The great, empty-looking parish church, an example of the depths of
commonplace to which the Perpendicular style can descend, has nothing
of interest, partly, no doubt, because Sir Gilbert Scott was had in
during 1863-4 to “restore” it, at a cost of £9,000, and partly because
it is designed in a monotonous repetition of window for window, and
moulding for moulding, from end to end. It is, in short, tedious and
tiresome to a degree, and contains a very nasty effigy of “Joana
Wallis,” dated 1675.
A depressing influence seems to prevade the district between
Loughborough and the Trent. The scenery is of no striking quality and
the villages seem to have experienced their best days. Hathern is an
uninteresting village of framework knitters, and Kegworth—in Domesday
Book “Cogesworde”—that comes next after it, makes hosiery, brews beer,
manufactures plaster, and carries on a variety of useful industries,
but looks as grim as a person responsible for thousands who has but a
penny in his pocket. It is a gaunt townlet, with large and equally
gaunt church of the Decorated period, standing in a commanding position
in the centre of the unlovely place. Both alike look ragged and
poverty-stricken, and although a large sum has been spent on restoring
the building, it still looks as though no care had been taken of it for
centuries. A bell still rings curfew at 8 p.m. in the winter months.
The Vestry was formerly the residence of a “domus inclusus,” or hermit.
Tom Moore, that merry Irishman, found it possible to write poetry at
Kegworth, but he performed some marvellous things. Tommy dearly loved
a lord, and was here in 1811 for the express purpose of being near his
friend, Lord Moira, whose park at Donington is near by. When my lord
went to India, the poet removed to Mayfield, and thence to Sloperton
Cottage, near Devizes, to be near Lord Lansdowne.
Three miles away to the right of the road and across the Soar, into
Nottinghamshire, is Gotham, a place so famed in legend that the impulse
to visit it is irresistible. The way lies by Kingston-on-Soar, where
there is a beautiful little church with wonderfully elaborate monument
to the Babington family, bearing their punning rebus of the “Babe in
Tun.”
The “Wise Men of Gotham” is an ironical saying, for the Gothamites
are proverbial for stupidity; but, like the fatuous behaviour of the
Wiltshire “moonrakers” of Bishop’s Cannings, the childish simplicity of
the original Gotham wiseacres was merely assumed. Their great exploit
was to plant a hedge round a cuckoo perched on a bush, in order to
keep him in; and on a hill one mile distant may to this day be found
the “Cuckoo Bush,” pointed out as the scene of their efforts. It is an
ivy-grown circular bank in a plantation enclosing a group of trees.
[Sidenote: _THE WISE MEN OF GOTHAM_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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