The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
In 1776 Johnson introduced his friend Boswell to Dr. Taylor, and
the next year that hero-worshipper was invited, on the instance of
Dr. Johnson, to make a longer stay. He remained a fortnight. At his
departure for the north he hired a post-chaise at the still-existing
“Green Man” inn, which has absorbed the “Black’s Head” since then and
added the name of that extinct house to its own. Boswell describes the
landlady of the “Green Man” as a “mighty civil gentlewoman.” Indeed she
was! She gave him a humble curtsey, and an engraving of her house, upon
which she had written: “M. Kilingley’s duty waits upon Mr. Boswell,
is exceedingly obliged to him for this favour; whenever he comes this
way, hopes for the continuance of the same. Would Mr. Boswell name this
house to his extensive acquaintance, it would be a singular favour
conferred on one who has it not in her power to make any other return
but her most grateful thanks and sincerest prayers for his happiness
in time and in blessed eternity. Tuesday morn.” There does not seem to
have been an “Amen” at the end of this, but it is certainly a “felt
want.”
The gallows sign of the house boldly straddles the narrow street, with
the “Green Man” sign pendant from it, and a huge “Black’s Head,” with
glaring eyes and a gaudily painted turban, above.
XXXI
[Sidenote: _CHOICE OF ROADS_]
Leaving Ashbourne, the traveller has still a choice of routes to
Manchester. He may go by the bleak and lofty road across the Derbyshire
moorlands, with scarce a house for many miles to keep him company, by
Newhaven Inn, and in the solemn companionship of the Roman road and the
prehistoric tumuli, on to Buxton and by Whaley Bridge to Stockport;
or he may choose the way by Leek and Macclesfield to Stockport,
which is the old mail-coach route, and therefore pre-eminently _the_
Manchester Road. The Buxton route was, however, the earlier of the
two, and only fell out of use after 1762, when the road by Leek and
Macclesfield was improved and turnpiked. A better surface than that of
this route could not be denied, but the stark loneliness of it, its
aloofness from most human interests—it runs as it were along the roof
of the world—are rather ghastly. How the isolated inns—the “Jug and
Glass,” the “Newhaven Inn,” the “Bull-i’-Thorn,” and the “Old Duke of
Cumberland”—pick a living it is difficult to tell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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