The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Stockport, in its local patriotism, would probably resent being lumped
with “Manchester,” and Manchester itself might object, but to the
passer-by, ignorant of local divisions, it is all one with the great
city, although the town is not even in the same county with it; the
river Mersey here dividing Stockport in Cheshire, from Manchester
in Lancashire. Cheshire, in its most characteristic condition, is
the Cheshire of the cheese-farms in the great fertile plain, where
mild-eyed cows stand knee-deep in pastures; and a great manufacturing
town is entirely out of sympathy with such idyllic scenes. I give you
my word there are no idylls in Stockport: only a road where the granite
setts are greasy; the pavements thronged with busy people and the girls
of the cotton-mills; the sky smoky, and the air filled with distracting
noise. But to see a less crowded and less noisy Stockport would be a
sorry thing, for it is the wealth-producing commerce of the place that
makes it what it is, and the times when the railway-lorries cease to
crash and rumble along the streets, and when the waggons, laden with
mountainous heights of grey shirtings, are no longer seen on their
way from the cotton-mills to Manchester warehouses, will be troublous
times for not only mill-hand and manufacturer, but for every one.
Commerce is typified in the statues that decorate public buildings by a
woman of noble proportions, clothed in classic dress, and in her face
a majestic calm; but that is an abstraction. Commerce as understood
here—and indeed everywhere—is a matter of telegrams and telephones, of
bales, packing-cases, and feverish hurry; and I suppose—if you must
feminise—the nearest real human beings to that classic convention are
the mill-girls and the typists. For the rest, commerce is what you
perceive here; a polluted river, darkened by factories, bridges, and
railway viaducts; and great goods yards, advertisement hoardings,
banks, and the hundred-and-one kinds of buildings in which the business
of the twentieth century is carried on.
The tall railway viaduct that spans the Mersey and goes high over
the steep and grimy streets leading down to it, is impressive in its
very bulk and in the smoky atmosphere that reveals it only in a broad
flat effect; and, in the same way, the towering buildings that have
no beauty of detail, gloom down upon you with an ogreish aspect that
transcends their ugliness and elevates it into the region of horrific
romance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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