The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Abbot Paul’s great building was imposing, but it was not beautiful.
What is left of his original work has become venerable through age,
but there can be no doubt that, could we see it in all its freshness,
as it was built, we should consider it very gaunt and ugly indeed. He
antedated the typical American in his desire to “lick creation,” and
he thought in feet and yards, rather than in terms of beauty. There
was much to provoke him to this. He had the relics of the then holiest
indigenous martyr, and those of St. Amphibalus, scarcely less holy, in
his charge, and ready to his hand lay huge piles of building materials,
the bricks, tiles, and stones of the ruined Roman city of _Verulamium_,
that had stood in the valley. The bulk of these materials was formed
of tiles, and with these the abbot reared his walls and piers, and the
central tower, bedding the tiles in mortar as thick as themselves:
so that to modern observers it seems remarkable that, with such a
pudding-like mass as this must have been before it dried out, the walls
ever consented to stand upright. Some few ornamental features were
incorporated from the Saxon church built by Offa, King of the Mercians,
in A.D. 793. These are the celebrated balusters, of undoubted Saxon
character, which, fitted with Norman capitals and bases, serve as
columns in the triforia of the transepts.
Abbot Paul’s building was of the most stark and naked early Norman
character. He willingly forswore ornament, if he could thereby
add another bay to the length of his Abbey Church, and he and the
mid-nineteenth-century builders join hands, in the spirit, across
the tremendous gap of seven centuries and a half. Both delighted in
plaster, and both hated to show the real materials of which they built.
Abbot Paul covered the entire exterior of his Abbey, as well as the
interior, from east to west, and up to the topmost battlements of his
central tower, with plaster, thick and slab, and thought the result
beautiful. And so did his contemporaries. We may take leave to look
with a considerable measure of contempt upon their taste. Traces of
the plaster facing of the tower, indeed, remained until 1870, when, in
course of restoration works, it was removed, revealing the beautiful
dark red hue of the Roman tiles of which it is constructed.
[Sidenote: _A COSTLY ENTERPRISE_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account