The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
It is somewhat difficult to characterise the new church. When you have
called it “Early English,” you momentarily think you have the style,
but no: there is a florid, alien, meretricious manner in it that
refuses classification. The peculiarly chalky white stone of which
it is built is not pleasing. At any rate, it was ducally expensive:
having cost the eighth Duke £30,000. The chief idea was the greater
glorification of future Russells, whose tombs were intended to be
placed here; but the constant reminder outside their own park that even
Dukes of Bedford must die did not commend itself to others of the clan,
and so their historic burial-place at Chenies, in Buckinghamshire, many
miles distant, is retained. The angles of the church tower are finished
off, against the sky-line, with four devils whose weird aspect,
horse-like heads and curled manes impress me more than anything else,
unless indeed it be the perfection of the magnificent lawn that slopes
steeply to the road.
All the way from sleepy old Woburn to the modern, very much up-to-date,
and bustling town of Woburn Sands the road passes through beautiful
woodlands, echoing with the voices of pheasants, and rich in the
odours of pine and beech and laurel. In midst of this scenery, the
half-timbered “Henry the Eighth’s Lodge,” with clipped yew-trees, in
shape like so many Stilton cheeses, is very striking. After these
solitudes, Woburn Sands comes very much as a surprise, and to some
perhaps not altogether a welcome one.
[Sidenote: _EX-HOGSTYE END_]
Woburn Sands is an entirely modern name. You will look in vain for it
in the pages of Cary or Paterson, for in the old days of the road the
place was merely an insignificant hamlet known by the unlovely name
of Hogstye End. But things have happened since then. A branch line of
the London and North-Western Railway was constructed, crossing the
road at this point, and with a station at the roadside. Thus brought
into touch with the outer world, the simple souls of Hogstye End arose
as one man, and demanded a new name for the place: and so the title
of Woburn Sands was invented. To-day, the astonished traveller sees a
typical twentieth-century township on the site of Hogstye End: a rosy,
red-brick place, growing at the expense of Woburn itself; and making
strenuous claims to be a health-resort, by reason of the sandy soil and
the wide-spreading fir-woods. The observant traveller will notice a
singular testimony to the belief, until recently prevailing, that the
days of the road were done, in the arrogant behaviour of the railway
company at this point, in actually encroaching upon the main highway
with the out-buildings of their station and the obstructing position of
the gates of their level-crossing, often closed for ten minutes at a
time during shunting operations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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