The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The “Bush” has since been rebuilt, but at Corby Castle, some two miles
away, in what was once the “Haunted Room,” there hangs in a frame an
interesting pane of glass from one of its windows, inscribed by no less
notable a traveller than Hume, the historian, with the satirical verse,
reflecting upon the “Bush,” the Cathedral, and Carlisle in general:
Here chicks in eggs for breakfast sprawl;
Here godless boys God’s glories squall;
Here heads of Scotchmen guard the wall,
But Corby’s walks atone for all.
Sir Walter Scott saw this in 1825, and humorously remarked in a letter
to his friend Morritt upon “Hume’s poetical works.”
[Sidenote: _A RAILWAY CENTRE_]
The reason that made Carlisle in early days the key of military
dispositions, and in later times so important a coaching centre, acted
even more powerfully in making it the busy centre of many railway
systems that it is to-day. Carlisle has ever stood squarely in the
way of those who would pass on the west between England and Scotland.
To-day, the rival railways all run into one joint station: and there
the London and North-Western, the Midland, and their respective allies,
the Caledonian, the North British, and the Glasgow and South-Western,
after many a Parliamentary battle in the past, compose their
differences.
The chief coaching-business was ruined thus early, but the branch
coaches yet remained, and the last coach—that to Edinburgh by
Hawick—did not leave Carlisle on its final journey until August 31st,
1862. Coaching history, however, is as little illustrated in Carlisle
by visible remains as the ancient story of the place, for while the
“Bush” has been rebuilt, the rival inn, the “Crown and Mitre,” in
Castle Street, has declined to the state of a coffee-tavern, and the
“Blue Bell,” in Scotch Street, has obviously seen its best days.
If you seek frowning gateways, embattled walls, and the like,
sufficient to clothe the stirring story of Carlisle, you will be
freezing in the cold shade of disappointment, for the streets of
Carlisle are wide, many of the houses are modern, and railways are very
much to the fore. The Cathedral is obscurely placed, and almost the
only picturesque nook is the alley called St. Alban’s Row. Even the
old upping-blocks that used to stand so plentifully by the kerbstones
for the convenience of horsemen, and were a feature of Carlisle, have
disappeared. Only the odd names of the streets and alleys occasionally
remain: among them Rickergate, Whippery, and Durham Ox Lane.
[Illustration: ST. ALBAN’S ROW.]
[Sidenote: _“MERRY” CARLISLE_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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