The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Stanwix, site of _Convagata_, obtains its name from the “stone way”
the Saxons found here. Truth to tell, modern Stanwix is a sorry spot
on which to meditate upon the departed colonial fortunes of Imperial
Rome, for the Wall is gone and Stanwix church and churchyard stand upon
the site of the fort. A precious ugly church, too, it is that has been
built here: Early English only by intention; with a dismally crowded
churchyard around it. A pathetic story is told by one of the epitaphs:
“Here lie the mortal bodies of five little sisters, the much-loved
children of A. C. Tait, Dean of Carlisle, and of Catherine, his wife,
who were all cut off within five weeks.” They died during an epidemic
of scarlet-fever, in 1856. A memorial window to them is in the north
transept of the Cathedral. “A. C. Tait” was, of course, Archibald
Campbell Tait, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury.
But if Stanwix be so ugly and commonplace, the scenery in which it is
placed is extremely beautiful. The greater, then, the crime of those
who have made it what it is. There is a lovely steep grassy descent,
plenteously wooded with noble trees, that falls away from the ridge of
Stanwix down to the Eden, and thus skirts the river for a mile or more.
“Rickerby Holmes” is the name of this beautiful feature. From this
point you gain the finest view of Carlisle.
[Sidenote: _THE BORDER_]
It is a flat, featureless country that stretches north from Stanwix
across the nine miles to the Border-line. Miserable villages that are
merely collections of gaunt cottages little better than hovels, often
built of “dubbin,” _i.e._ clay and straw, occur at intervals. Nearly
all of comparatively modern date, they point unmistakably to the fact
that it is not so very long since to live in the Debatable Land was
hazardous, and not to be thought of by the law-abiding. Very well
indeed for moss-trooping vagabonds and cow-stealers, but not for the
responsible, or those who wished for a quiet life.
Passing Goslin Syke, where a marshy stream crosses the road, we come to
Kingstown, where the road branches right and left. On this, the last
stage to the Border, this parting of the ways meant much to eloping
couples, bound for Scotland and marriage immediately on reaching
Scottish soil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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