The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
“Woods they have none: that suits not with the frugality of the people,
who are so far from propagating any, that they destroy those they had
upon this politick State Maxim, that Corn will not grow on the land
pestered with its Roots, and their branches harbour Birds, Animals
above their humble conversation, that exceeds not that of Hornless
Quadrupedes; marry, perhaps some of their houses lurk under the shelter
of a plump of trees (the Birds not daring so high a presumption)
like Hugh Peters Puss in her Majesty, or an Owl in an Ivy-Bush. Some
fir-woods there are in the High-lands, but so inaccessible, that they
serve for no other use than Dens for those ravenous Wolves with 2
hands, that prey upon their neighbourhood and shelter themselves under
this Covert; to whom the sight of a stranger is as surprizing as that
of a Cockatrice. The Vallies for the most part are covered with Beer or
Bigg, and the Hills with Snow.
“If the air was not so pure and well-refined by its agitation, it would
be so infected with the stinks of their Towns and the steam of the
Nasty Inhabitants that it would be pestilential and destructive.
“The people are Proud, Arrogant, Vainglorious boasters; Bloody,
Barbarous and Inhuman Butchers. Couzenage and Theft is in perfection
among them, and they are perfect English-haters. Their spirits are so
mean that they rarely rob, but they take away life first. Lying in
Ambush, they send a brace of bullets through the traveller’s body, and
to make sure work they sheath their Durks in his liveless trunk.
“Their cruelty descends to their Beasts, it being a custom in some
places to feast upon a living Cow. They tie it in the middle of them,
near a great fire, and then cut collops off this poor living beast, and
broil them on the fire, till they have mangled her all to pieces: nay,
sometimes they will only cut off as much as will satisfy their present
Appetites, and let her go till their greedy Stomachs call for a new
supply: such horrible cruelty as can scarce be paralleled in the whole
world.”
[Sidenote: _MANNERS AND CUSTOMS_]
“The Highlanders talk only Erse, the Lowlanders understand and talk
English, but they are so currish that if a stranger enquires the way in
English they will certainly answer in Erse, and find no other language
until you force it from them with a Cudgel.”
Let us hope, for the travellers’ own sakes, that they did not take this
advice. But let us follow Mr. Kirke indoors. This, according to him,
was a Scottish interior: “To enter a kitchen is to enter Hell alive:
the stew and stink enough to suffocate you,” while “Musick they have,
but not the Harmony of the Spheres, but loud Terrene noises, like the
bellowing of beasts: the loud Bagpipe is their chief delight.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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