The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Professor Wilson, “Christopher North,” and his fellow-contributors
to the _Edinburgh Review_, claimed to cultivate literature on a
little oatmeal, but the claim might better be made for the author
of “Frederick the Great” and “Sartor Resartus.” Plain living and
high-thinking, you cannot fail to see, formed his life. A very
simple-living, homely man indeed, as all his intimate belongings
clearly show. His plain, commonplace inkstand, with the last pen he
used, his simple writing-table with its original table-cloth, his
tobacco-jar, together with a tobacco-cutter with which he sliced
his own tobacco, are all of the least expensive kind, and, looking
upon them, I feel vicariously ashamed for the modern authors of
“masterpieces” who, according to the literary journals of the day,
cannot feel “inspired” unless they are lapped round with every luxury.
Carlyle’s felt hat is enclosed under glass: his straw hat hangs
upon the wall, and you may put it on your own head. Most people do.
Prominent among the many tributes to his genius is the great laurel
wreath sent in 1895 by the German Emperor to mark the centenary of his
birth. It was, of course, primarily a tribute to the hero-worshipping
author of “Frederick the Great.”
[Illustration: OLD TABLET AT ECCLEFECHAN.]
Carlyle himself lies in the dour little graveyard of Ecclefechan, among
his kin and away from his wife, whose grave is in the roofless nave
of Haddington Abbey. Like most Scottish kirkyards, the gates of it are
chained and locked.
“Entepfuhl” as Carlyle in “Sartor Resartus” styles Ecclefechan, is
proud of him, largely, I suspect, because it perceives that the world
beyond Annandale thinks so much of “Tam Carl.” There is a “Resartus
Reading Room,” rather shabby with decrepit chairs, themselves sadly
wanting reseating, or, better still, renewing altogether.
An oddly designed old house-tablet recently uncovered from the many
coats of plaster and whitewash that had long concealed it, is now a
feature of the house adjoining the Carlyle birthplace, and is perhaps
the only curious item in the village.
There is a railway station nowadays at Ecclefechan, but the village
is probably a quieter place than it was in Carlyle’s early days, when
the Glasgow Mail dashed by, and the local coaches enlivened the street
twice a day. For one thing, the station lies at a considerable step
away, up along what was the new road when Telford made it, so long ago,
and called new to this day.
It is a kind of mild hog’s-back ascent out of Ecclefechan and so
along the six miles to Lockerbie, passing on the way the farmhouse
of Mainhill, where Thomas Carlyle’s father at the age of fifty-seven
started to be a farmer, striving there ten years, from 1815 to 1826.
Then comes the beautiful park of Castlemilk, seat of the Jardine
family, followed by Milk Bridge crossing the river of that name, and
the smart suburban entrance to Lockerbie.
[Sidenote: _LOCKERBIE_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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