The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The Cathedral itself is dedicated to Kentigern, under the pet name
given him by St. Serf.
[Sidenote: _THE CATHEDRAL_]
St. Mungo’s Cathedral, standing on the site where, by the “Glas-coed,”
or “dark wood” of the original settlement, the saint erected his
wooden mission church some thirteen hundred and fifty years ago, is
the successor of several buildings that have been erected on the spot,
and in its present form dates from what we are accustomed to style
the Early English period of the mid-thirteenth century. It consists
of nave, 155 feet in length, and choir of 97 feet; with aisles, Lady
Chapel, and Chapter House; while the crypt beneath the choir is one of
the most striking features of the building.
Occupying the highest point in Glasgow, the Cathedral was in olden days
in midst of very beautiful scenery, but in these times it is surrounded
by the poorest quarters and although it commands views of some extent,
they are only of roofs and chimneys and of the once pretty hillside
now thickly set with the larger or smaller monuments of the cemetery
called the “Necropolis.” The old Molendinar Burn that ran in the hollow
between the Cathedral and that crowded Golgotha was long ago covered
up and its course converted into a road spanned by the bridge leading
into the cemetery, called the “Bridge of Sighs.” Prominent above all
other monuments on that stricken hill is the tall column crowned by
an effigy of John Knox. The Cathedral Yard itself is a dismal place.
There, forming a close paving, are the memorials of many of Glasgow’s
departed citizens: the stones broken and mangy: merchants jostling
cock-lairds and dunghill squires with their heraldic achievements
weathered in most cases almost beyond recognition; and one of those
ferocious denunciatory Covenanters’ monuments with which every visitor
to Scotland soon becomes familiar.
They’ll know, at Resurrection Day,
To murder Saints was no sweet play.
So runs the savage rhyme.
The Cathedral, in common with other such ecclesiastical buildings in
Scotland, is maintained by the Office of Works, and is opened at ten
o’clock in the morning by an uniformed official. It is black without
and extremely dark within: the crypt, by reason of the darkness and
the maze of pillars, being a place wherein the stranger is reduced to
groping his way about. In short, a building of exquisite beauty, but
dank and dark to a degree. A great deal of this darkness is caused by
the bad, semi-opaque, highly coloured heraldic and other stained glass
inserted half a century ago.
Glasgow has ever been proud of its Cathedral. Sir Walter Scott echoes
this attitude in “Rob Roy,” where he makes Andrew Fairservice say: “A
brave kirk—nane o’ yer whigmaleeries and curliewurlies and opensteek
hems about it—a’ solid, weel-jointed mason-wark, that will stand as
lang as the warld, keep hands and gunpowther aff it.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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