The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The Duke of Gloucester, although he rebuilt the Castle, is chiefly
associated with a much more sheltered situation, in the town itself.
There were intervals between the acts of even Richard the Third’s
melodrama, when, turning from battle, and from compassing the death of
his relatives, he sought repose and refreshment, and he found them here
in what must have been the exceedingly comfortable quarters of what
was once Dockwray Hall, an ancient building that stands in the square
called Great Dockwray, and is now, in memory of him, the “Gloucester
Arms” inn.
The old house does not wear so prepossessing an exterior as, under
these historic circumstances, it should. That is largely due to its
stucco facing, painted the colour of decaying liver. The only exterior
sign of the house being anything out of the ordinary is the carved
and emblazoned shield over the door, displaying the arms of Richard
himself, supported by two white boars with gilded manes. Another
doorway has a shield with three greyhounds, “in pale, courant,” as
a herald would say, and the inscription “I. W., 1580:” the initials
standing for “John Whelpdale,” who made extensive alterations to the
building.
The pilgrim who sups not merely on gross food and drink, but feeds the
finer tissues of his being on historic scenes and antique panelled
rooms, will find much delight in the “Gloucester Arms.” He may sleep
where that gory Richard slept—and, it may be hoped, with a better
conscience, and may look upon a banqueting-hall, now unfortunately
subdivided, wherein our ancestors feasted on swans and other curious
dishes long obsolete, washed down with nasty drinks unknown to the
present age.
Equally interesting is the old “Two Lions” inn near by. It looks out
up the street in a shy manner, being hidden upon a narrow entry, in
a fashion that to a southron seems a strangely retiring pose for an
ancient mansion of the landed classes; a complexion from which, in
fact, the house has, since ancient times, declined. Time was—in the
reign of the more or less good Queen Bess, to be precise—when what is
now the “Two Lions” was the “town house” of Gerard Lowther, a notable
member of the always rich and powerful Lowther family; and little
though the exterior may attract, there is a very wealth of interest
within. The fireplace of the hall has three heraldic shields, and the
banqueting-room, now the smoking-room, has an enriched plaster ceiling,
dated 1585 and displaying ten shields of the arms of Lowthers and
allied families. In an upstairs room is another ceiling heraldically
adorned with the arms of Lowther and Dudley, dated 1586, and with
the initials of Gerard Lowther himself and Lucy, his wife. More to
the purpose of the smaller tradesmen of Penrith, who are the chief
frequenters of the “Two Lions,” is the fine bowling-green—bowling
rhyming with “howling,” in the speech of the older folk—at the back of
the house.
[Sidenote: _PENRITH CHURCH_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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