The Manufacture of Tomato Products: Including whole tomato pulp or puree, tomato catsup, chili sauce, tomato soup, trimming pulpHier, W. G. (Wayland Gladstone)
Science
The Manufacture of Tomato Products: Including whole tomato pulp or puree, tomato catsup, chili sauce, tomato soup, trimming pulp
Hier, W. G. (Wayland Gladstone)
Tomato products
Spices should not be held in storage for a long time, particularly in
open bins, as some of their volatile oils pass off little by little into
the air and are lost. This is especially true of cassia, either ground
or broken. They should be stored in a dry place, as some of them are apt
to mold if left in an atmosphere of condensing steam, and of course this
mold would contaminate the catsup to some extent. I have seen mace which
was in a very moldy condition due to its having been stored in the cook
room for some time, and having collected moisture. Some of the milder
varieties of pepper are also known to become moldy on exposure to
extreme dampness.
Quality of Flavor
A great deal could be written about the quality of various varieties of
the same spice. All of these varieties will not be discussed here but I
will try to show how the packer is sometimes mislead by spice salesmen
who show chemical analyses of their spices as positive proof of the
actual value that they contain. As a matter of fact, the true value of a
spice cannot be shown by a chemical analysis.
Take, for example, cassia. The finest flavored cassia is the Saigon
cassia, which can be obtained in the thin quill, the medium bark, and in
the thick bark. At the other extreme we have the China cassia, which is
considerably cheaper than the Saigon. If the catsup packer is going to
judge his spices according to strength, he may find that he gets more
strength from the cheap cassia than from the expensive one. The chemical
analysis may show that the China cassia contains more essential oil than
the Saigon does. In fact, this is often the case. However, what about
the quality of that essential oil? There is the point. The essential oil
extracted from the Saigon is different from that extracted from the
China cassia. It has a more delicate, refined flavor. Its flavor is more
pleasing to the palate, and is free from “harshness,” and “strength” of
an unrefined nature.
This does not mean that one cannot make a nice flavored catsup with
China cassia, as such is not the case, but a better flavor can be
obtained with Saigon. The point is that quality of flavor as well as
quantity of flavor must be considered. Chemical analyses are only of
value when exactly the same variety of two or more samples of spice are
compared.
When it comes to cayenne pepper, the quality of the flavor is not the
important factor that it is in the milder spices. Cayenne is used to
give “hotness” to the catsup, and the hotter the cayenne is, the greater
its value to the packer. The Mombassa and the Japan chillies are the
hottest, although in recent years they have been so expensive that it is
more economical to use some of the others, even though a slightly larger
quantity may be required.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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