In this watered valley are immense herds of cattle. The plain is covered
with a thick coarse grass, which has now been everywhere cut, either by
the troops themselves for their horses, or by the natives for sale to us.
Crossing the plain, we have a steep rise up the side of the hill, and
then, surmounting the rise, we find ourselves at the head of a valley
running nearly due south. This we descend; and from the number of villages
perched on the eminences on either side, it is evident that water is
generally found in this locality. It was probably, at some not very
distant time, much more thickly populated than it is at present, for many
of the villages are ruinous and deserted. This valley is very pretty, and,
after the treeless plain of Senafe, is doubly agreeable, for the sides of
the hills are everywhere clothed with the gigantic candelabra cactus.
These are now just bursting into blossom. The blossoms grow from the
extremity of each of the innumerable arms of the candelabra; and as their
colour varies from white, through delicate shades of pink, to dark-red,
the effect is very beautiful; indeed, with their regular growth, and
perfect mass of blossom, they look as if they had just been transplanted
from the grounds of the Messrs. Veitch to this country for some gigantic
flower-show. There is a church in this valley, which is much venerated as
being the scene of the martyrdom of some eight or ten Christians in the
time of the persecution. My knowledge of Abyssinian history is, I confess,
of too meagre a nature for me to give you an approximate date of this
affair. Their bones are, however, still to be seen; and from this I should
say that the event could not be very distant, as in a climate subject to
great heat and heavy rains as this is, it is probable that bones would
very speedily decay. The church is at some distance from the road, and is,
like most of the churches here, upon a hill. I did not, therefore, turn
aside to examine it, as I shall have plenty of opportunities of examining
churches hereafter, and, with the exception of the martyrs’ bones, it
presents no feature of peculiar interest. Descending the valley, we find
it to be only a feeder of a wide valley running east and west. The valley
was, like Goose Plain, covered with coarse grass, and contained immense
herds of cattle. The side opposite to that by which we had entered it was
very steep; the mountains are nearly bare, and near their summits present
an appearance which, had I not seen it also upon the rock at Senafe, I
should have said had been caused by a very slight fall of snow. I learn,
however, that it is a very small lichen, which is abundant upon the rocks.
I presume that this lichen is at present in flower or seed; for I did not
observe the peculiar appearance at my first visit to Senafe, and it is so
remarkable that I could not have failed to notice it had it existed at
that time. We know now that we are near our destination, for we see the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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